Fouling Plugs

[parrot69777]

Isn't 4m great?

[powerslide]

I go racing by myself also... you cant get in the ball park free reving your motor in the shop.

But to each his own.

If I sound like an ass its because your a dumb ass most likely and dont like anyone to tell you the plain simple obvious truth... you want morons to reply that are as dumb as you.

How do you finish any races? If you have the same attitude at the track that you have here on 4m i'm suprised you dont get taken out everynite. Or do you just give the tough guy act on the net?

[merc123]

I got a brand new motor last season. We ran it on the dyno about 6 or 7 times. Bolted it into the car and ran 2 full races. 3rd race it started to misfire. It would rev to 5500 with a load and stop. It wouldn't misfire in the garage with no load. Turned out to be bad plugs...AR134's.

Truth is you won't know if it is driveable until you drive it. Wait until the play day and take it out on the track.

[stock car driver]

I go racing by myself also... you cant get in the ball park free reving your motor in the shop.

But to each his own.

If I sound like an ass its because your a dumb ass most likely and dont like anyone to tell you the plain simple obvious truth... you want morons to reply that are as dumb as you.

What part of that is a tough guy act? I hit the nail on the head about this guy, period.

He wanted to chat on here like it was yahoo messenger with other idiots. He didnt want any actual help whatsoever.

[4bangerhotrod]

we always had trouble when running autolites in our LM engines if the car set in staging idleing or had a lot of caution laps the plugs would get wet, even after cleaning it out before going green it always took a few laps to clean them up, then we would have to change plugs every 3-4 races. But now we switched to ngk and we havnt had a prob since, so now we switch plugs about every 10-15 races just to be on the safe side even though the engine dont seem to need it. and running the car in the garage we always do every week to make sure theres no obvious problems before heading out. when we get a new engine or one freshened the builder makes a couple dyno pulls when we pick them up then we adjust through the year by free revving in the shop never had a prob, then we back it up by a few runs down the ol black top just for the fun of it. this is with a top ranked national driver cars and a top ranked regional driver car. so stock car driver you might be good at what you do but your way is not the only way to do everything, cause there are people that do it different and it also works and we got walls of $10k an a few $50k checks to prove it.

[stock car driver]

we always had trouble when running autolites in our LM engines if the car set in staging idleing or had a lot of caution laps the plugs would get wet, even after cleaning it out before going green it always took a few laps to clean them up, then we would have to change plugs every 3-4 races. But now we switched to ngk and we havnt had a prob since, so now we switch plugs about every 10-15 races just to be on the safe side even though the engine dont seem to need it. and running the car in the garage we always do every week to make sure theres no obvious problems before heading out. when we get a new engine or one freshened the builder makes a couple dyno pulls when we pick them up then we adjust through the year by free revving in the shop never had a prob, then we back it up by a few runs down the ol black top just for the fun of it. this is with a top ranked national driver cars and a top ranked regional driver car. so stock car driver you might be good at what you do but your way is not the only way to do everything, cause there are people that do it different and it also works and we got walls of $10k an a few $50k checks to prove it.

Cool. Post some pics of those 50k check (s) on the wall please.

Id bet ya a grand your just another idiot who wants to CHAT...

[parrot69777]

Every guy I help....either the night before or race day....car is started, timing checked, float level checked, checked for leaks, etc. Be surprised how many things you can find sometime that had gotten over looked.

Nothing more fun than watching someone unload at a race track....run back and forth 5 or 6 times at the parts truck....trying to fix something they should have fixed in the shop.

[stock car driver]

That right there proves you are either lying or just full of crap.

Before I load the car on the trailer to go to the track, I start it. I get it up to temp, and check the timing, float levels, etc. EVERY RACE DAY. PERIOD.

Any idiot who doesn't even bring his motor up to temp before he puts it on the trailer is just talking. Hell, you must never set your valves or change plugs either, because there is no way in hell I'd do either of those things and not start the motor until I got to the track!

Keep up the attitude, chief. That's the best way to guarantee you'll never build anything but FWD cages!

Sorry buddy, I dont start my motors at home. Thats a fact. I set lash COLD. And I load my car into a trailer not onto one. I change my plugs if I have a problem or rebuild a motor. They are made for thousands of miles of use, lol....

AND I believe this is your 3rd or 4th time commenting to me worried about my business... If Im not worried about it should you be?

[powerslide]

was your screen name montecarloman on the old forum???

Sorry buddy, I dont start my motors at home. Thats a fact. I set lash COLD. And I load my car into a trailer not onto one. I change my plugs if I have a problem or rebuild a motor. They are made for thousands of miles of use, lol....

AND I believe this is your 3rd or 4th time commenting to me worried about my business... If Im not worried about it should you be?

[stock car driver]

was your screen name montecarloman on the old forum???

same name sorry

I cant say I know of anyone that would let their motor sit and idle to get up to temp BEFORE they load it, thats the stupidest post on here ever....

My motors dont even get UP to temp till I start going around it, lol.. My motors will sit at 100-150 degrees for an hour if I was dumb enough to let them run that long.

I guess when you know your stuff is right you dont have to wear it out in the garage? Ive never gotten a trophy in the garage!

[4bangerhotrod]

stock car it will be a few weeks before I can post the pics since we are over 1000 miles away from the shop right now tryin to pick up a few more checks an wont be back for atleast 2 weeks. but you can come down to the casino tonight an see me since were rained out

[Egoracing]

I change my plugs if I have a problem or rebuild a motor. They are made for thousands of miles of use, lol....

This is about the stupidest thing I have seen you post. Plugs for racing are NOT made to run thousands of miles and stock plugs were NOT designed for the RPM, cylinder temps and ignition voltages of racing engines.
Guess you don't rebuild you engines until you get 200,000+ miles on them either, heck they are good for at least that long in a street car! Brake rotors and pads must last about 60,000 miles also.

[stock car driver]

This is about the stupidest thing I have seen you post. Plugs for racing are NOT made to run thousands of miles and stock plugs were NOT designed for the RPM, cylinder temps and ignition voltages of racing engines.
Guess you don't rebuild you engines until you get 200,000+ miles on them either, heck they are good for at least that long in a street car! Brake rotors and pads must last about 60,000 miles also.

Sorry buddy but a race season is not 200,000 miles. If plugs cant last you 20-25 nights youve got a serious problem.

Are you actually asking how long rotors and brake pads last?

Hot lap. 4 laps
heat race 8-12 laps
main 12-20 laps.

total a night aprox 35 laps. Largest track here is half mile. So 18 miles a night, lol...

[Egoracing]

If you are running plugs that long you are giving away HP after about 5-10 nights depending on the race length you are running. 150 racing laps and you will see a difference on a dyno.

[RCJ]

Looking down on your carb you will see 2 small holes on each side of the accelerator pump squirter.The ones close to the squirter are high speed air bleeds .The ones to the out side of the carb are idle bleeds.If you inlarge them it will give a leaner idle.That is the only adjustment I would make with the car sitting in the shop idleing and free reving it.The 3310 that you have does not have replaceable air bleeds like most racing carbs so you would have to drill them If you get them to big the only way to fix them is to drill and tap them for air bleeds.Most holleys get richer as you increase rpm' bigger high speed bleeds leans the mixture at higher rpm.