Buying a quality piece the first time is always faster and cheaper in the long run, especially with racing parts.
new to quick change. need advice
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They are the same price as the ones you are pushing... You have admitted you never used the product. So bow out and say I use X brand and they have been great. So in closing it appears PEM wouldn't make you a dealer so you come here and slam them.Originally posted by stock car driver View PostIm sure lots of people run them, they are the CHEAPEST gear out there that's rem finished... Which stands to reason since they are NOT made with the same quality metals that the others are made with.
U can polish a turd and its still a turd.
I never recommend the cheapest parts out there, I prefer quality products.
Id buy a Honda over a kia etc...
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Read my posts. I called PEM about their product and they would not say what metal was used period.. I can be a dealer for anyone I want, I choose who I deal with and which products I choose to use and sell. All this is posted above.Originally posted by powerslide View PostThey are the same price as the ones you are pushing... You have admitted you never used the product. So bow out and say I use X brand and they have been great. So in closing it appears PEM wouldn't make you a dealer so you come here and slam them.
I CHOOSE to not sell products that are not going to be made consistently from the same materials over and over or from a material that clearly isn't as good as everyone elses..
I am not pushing anything, I don't need to sell a single part for the rest of my life. I choose to sell some parts to help some people save some money, either way I run my racing as a business and it works for me just fine with or without any sales to the public or my friends. Last year I only sold 113k in parts so at 25% clearly that's not enough income to sweat vs the time it takes.
Why would someone buy unknown material (some where between 8640 and 9310 their words) brand vs known high quality 9310 material?
Why is it that when I post my opinion on anything so many of you have such a cry fest about it? But your opinion matters? Ive seen your pics of your junk powerslide and your car looks as though you have a budget of zero and skills even less when it comes to making a body hanging a body etc.Last edited by stock car driver; 05-01-2015, 10:54 AM.
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G force.
http://www.4m.net/showthread.php?343...08#post1915908
I get them direct from the place that makes them, but you can get them from jegs and dmi for sure. Heres a link to the top of the line ones that I run personally... jegs sells them for 237, dmi sells them for 239. There is another one that is below this one, while its still lightweight it doesn't have the drilled holes and is 1 1/8 wide. I weighed 486 in each and there was 2lb difference.
http://www.jegs.com/p/G-Force-Transm...48883/10002/-1
Here is what dmi says about them on their website, they sell them as friction fighter.
Simply stated Friction Fighter 10 Spline Quick Change Gears are the
strongest, lightest, highest quality gears available. 9310 Ultra high
strength steel, stone ground, cryogenic processed and REM® finished -
The gear mesh area is only 1" wide eliminating friction. $239.00Last edited by stock car driver; 05-04-2015, 08:12 AM.
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I would get a dial indicator and check my lower shaft. I had a set break last year and did the same thing you described. Bent lower shaft in qc bent the cover, flat spotted the bearings on shaft and broke the out put shaft in the brinn. I think they only allow .001 runout on the shaft. Best of luck
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So what is a acceptable oil what weight? Will the high nuts stay tight do they need safety wire. What about the hub bearing. Ford had gear lube in tubes. This quick change looks sealed
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quick change are sealed tubes. my rear nuts on cover stay very tight on mine no wire, if that's what your asking about it hard to decipher your post!
Grease the hubs, it doesn't take much.
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