Think of switching to brad penn oil 20w50. Have always used 20w50 vr1 valvoline.
brad penn oil good or bad ????
Collapse
X
-
Tags: None
-
Have a oil dealer offering to supply my oil if I use brad penn. Was just looking for some input on the oil from racers that have used it.
Comment
-
Just make sure you get the oil up to 120-140 or so before you hammer on it. I don't believe in all the oil wars, unless you have an issue I think it will be fine with brad penn or walmart oil. If someone is sponsoring it take it, plenty of guys running it and not having issues.
Comment
-
I've dyno'd several brands of oil.If you stay with the same weight they were all very close.i would have no problems using it if I had to pay for it even better if it was free.I would look in to switching to a liter weight with it.If you are using 20/50 might try 10/40.Even at the same weights brad penn feels thicker.What kind of car are you racing?
Comment
-
-
That is what we were running it in.We were buying our motors and that is what the engine builder recommend.On the motors I was building, I installed an oil temp gauge.The temp was 250-270 with synthetic oil so 20/50 might be the better choice for you.On the modified oil temp was lower and on dry sumped l/m it was lower.That is where the liter oil might be tried.
Comment
-
I do not believe that a 20/50 oil is ever ever needed. The thicker oil can very well cause higher oil temperatures, dizzy gear wear, oil aeration, oil return, etc.
With proper clearances a 10/30 oil is plenty. So is 15lbs idle pressure that rises quickly 50 lbs at race speeds.
Comment
-
With a flat tappet lifter the additive package has been a concern since most over the counter oils are formulated for emissions and hydraulic roller lifters. So far never a problem with Brad Penn or VR-1, but if the Mobil 1 stays cooler maybe it'd be something to research.
Comment
-
Pull a drain plug next time after the feature and see how thin the oil gets when its 240-270. That thin oil is ok for drag cars that the oil temps never get over 200 but its a different world in the roundy round. Also when that motor w/ 15lbs and 50lbs gets some wear it may be 5 and 40. Build some cushion into it.Originally posted by Lizardracing View PostI do not believe that a 20/50 oil is ever ever needed. The thicker oil can very well cause higher oil temperatures, dizzy gear wear, oil aeration, oil return, etc.
With proper clearances a 10/30 oil is plenty. So is 15lbs idle pressure that rises quickly 50 lbs at race speeds.
Comment
-
I've won the points championship 5 years in a row in a limited latemodel and 1 year mini mod. All on Brad Penn and absoutely zero bearing issues or heating issues. I run @enn in all my races motors and I use straight 40. I did run partially syn 10W40 this year in a 2.3 to compare 40 versus 10w40...no issues...Great oil. If you are overheating, fix your cooling issue
Comment
-
So what would be a good oil to run if it is breaking down after a heat race? I have ran 20/50 vr1 for several years with no problems. but lately have been losing oil pressure after the heat race and the engine warmin up to around 220 degrees. Oil pressure goes back up after it cools
Comment
-
That sounds like the bearings are getting looser.Some oil pressure drop from cold to hot is normal.Our L/M will idle cold at 60lbs and 30lbs after feature(.0027 mains).Our other motor(.003 mains) with valve spring and lifter oilers will idle at 35 cold and 15 after feature.Both run around 70lbs at speed.
Comment
-
I ran valvoline racing oil for many years...then switched to pennzoil..and the last two years I ran brad penn....its all about the clearances. Not alot of differences in oil these days. Our engines were always on alcohol, were warmed up properly and maintenenced regularly. The last couple of years ran an accusump....seemed to help also.
Comment
Comment