602 Crate Oil Pressure Light Flickering

[rangerover]

We noticed the 20# oil light coming on after a race coming off the track. Water temp was only 190 and the three night old oil is Amsoil 10-30 Dominator Synthetic. The next race, the oil light was coming on during cautions and then started doing it in the corners while racing toward the end of the feature. In the pits, it would dip to about 5 - 10 # at idle then go back up to 40. It even did it unloading from the trailer the next morning with cold oil. Oil pressure is responsive to RPM then dips down and turns the 20# light on and goes as low as 5 # then climbs back up.

The oil pan does have a hit from the bottom, but not much more than many dented oil pan bottoms I've seen. As far as performance, it has been running fine. Any ideas?

[JustAddDirt]

might have knocked the end of the pickup tube off, or closed up the distance between pan and pickup.

[rangerover]

I'm fearing the same thing and hope we haven't damaged anything. I guess an authorized rebuilder can open it up and check. Could they just remove the pan and work on bottom end without getting into the cost of a complete rebuild?

[Lizardracing]

There is a local authorized rebuilder in my neck of the woods that only charges for what he has to do for repairs. They are pretty liberal with the over all cost though and another reason I despise crate classes. A $50 DIY fix is now gonna cost you at least 3x that amount and with 0 chance to make it better so it doesn't happen again.

[SRXSRULE]

Pull the drain plug and put a video inspection camera up there and try to take a look at the pick-up tube. If you dont have one, just buy one. They are pretty cheap and come in handy all the time. you can buy them with a 5mm dia tip and they even come with mirror attachments and magnets.

I would try a few things before taking it out and tearing it down. The first thing would be a new oil filter, and making sure the oil level is correct. Eric

[RCJ]

Cut the oil filter open.More than likely you have already hurt the bearings.

[dave41]

listen to RCJ. he is right

[JustAddDirt]

what oil filter are you running?

[rangerover]

Good ideas on the camera probe and cutting oil filter. I'm running a K+N long oil filter with the provision for a 1" socket. I think the part # is HP3002, if I'm not mistaken.

[JustAddDirt]

I would cut oil filter open, make sure media is not all blown up and twisted. that can also cause an oil pressure problem.

[dave41]

I will say number three main bearing is bright and worn

[rangerover]

Ok, guys. At the risk of becoming a Darwin Award winner, I’m thinking about welding on my oil pan to pull back the dent. One way is the spot welded studs and puller like the body shops use and the other idea is to MIG several ¼ nuts to use a bolt and puller on. I don’t think the spot welds would create enough heat to start a fire, but what do you guys think? Drain all the oil or leave it in to absorb heat inside the pan? If it wasn’t a F@#$! sealed Crate motor, I’d pull the pan, fix it correctly and be done with it…

[rangerover]

It costs like 50 to have the pan replaced and motor re sealed by a certified rebuilder.

There lies the problem. We are a four hour drive (each way) from the nearest certified rebuilder. Truck freight changes the total price tag and becomes a pain because they can only pick up and drop off at a business, with a fork lift etc. We'd pay gladly $50 or even $150 to get the problem fixed across town.

[A ron]

$50 to have a builder replace a pan? I wish! I paid one $300 to replace a timing cover (that ended up going back to leaking 2 races later). Took it to another and he charged the same thing, but he at least fixed it right. On top of that, unless they built the motor, they don't want to fix it because they don't trust other builders.

[A ron]

Oh okay. Nesmith may be the reason it costs so much down here.