Carb tuning question

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  • powerslide
    Senior Member
    • May 2007
    • 2696

    #16
    Originally posted by jmarkaudio View Post
    A few things need to be done. First, the transition slots in the Quick Fuel baseplates are too large, to fix this you need transition slot restrictors in the metering block face of the main body. 8-32 brass set screws, drilled to .082. And second is lower the idle feed restrictions, it will make idle and transition fuel more stable. For a lowered idle feed I would start with a #66 drill, .033" start with a .070 idle air bleed, tweak as needed. Timing should be locked out. And then take the main air bleeds to .030. Instructions for the idle jet relocation at the link below.

    http://racingfuelsystems.myfunforum.....php?f=31&t=18
    Nice to see you made it over to our little forum Jmark. I PM'd the OP and told him to get with you over on the bullet.

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    • let-r-eat
      Senior Member
      • May 2007
      • 2319

      #17
      Listen to jmark. He'll get you straightened out.
      BUCKLE UP NOW, YA HEAR?

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      • 50j
        Senior Member
        • Jun 2007
        • 1047

        #18
        I think I'd check some basic stuff first. What spark plugs? What gap? Are the fuel lines close to any heat source like headers, lower radiator hose, or the engine? Have you tried another known good carburetor to see if the problem stays or goes? The fact that is doesn't do it all the time and it's worse after a long caution could indicate that the carb is rich on the idle circuit or transition but there may be other things going on there like boiling the fuel or just simply too cold a spark plug. Where are the idle mixture screws and float level set?

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        • 50j
          Senior Member
          • Jun 2007
          • 1047

          #19
          And yes, as mentioned your timing should be locked. One reason is to pull more vacuum at idle and close the throttle blade down in the base plate to show less t-slot if it's showing too much now. Locked timing is more reliable too.

          Comment

          • iceman
            Member
            • Sep 2007
            • 93

            #20
            I've been chasing this gremlin for a long time. Several carbs, distributers, and headers. The biggest improvement came from replacing the 180 headers with over the top style headers that I was running before this problem started. They were creating so much heat under the hood that the engine would vapor lock - even melted the distributer cap. I've made so many adjustments to the carbs, that I'm fairly sure that I caused this problem. I've found one problem -showing too much T-slot on the secondaries. I'm going to put it on the track and see how it runs before I do anything else. Jmarkaudio, I have no doubt that you know what you're talking about, but mods like that, I'm going to leave to a professional. It might seem simple to you, but trust me, I can screw it up. Thanks for all the advice. I'll let you know how it goes.

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            • iceman
              Member
              • Sep 2007
              • 93

              #21
              I got hold of Quick Performance and got the factory specs for the carb. I reset it to factory specs - problem solved. I was pretty sure I had screwed it up.

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