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This GRT has 3 sets of holes the first set are 12 inch, then 13.5 inch, & 15inch. I was originally running the 12 inch but GRT says to go to the 13.5 inch. Also it was suggested.
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How did you decrease rake in j-bar? Dropping on frame or raising on pinion? Did you re-center rearend or have a radius mount?
Was the track much different from last time?
I would stick a 550 or even a 500 in the RF if you still have 2inches of travel left and the track is flat. Pull the spring out and put the shock back on and make sure the a-frame will even allow it to travel that far or if something is stopping it.
As a side note if you dont drive the car right and keep it loaded up on the RF the thing is going to push no matter what, 4-4cars aren't very driver friendly. Does your crew tell you that you are driving in to straight or too low?
Edit to add: Spring length doesnt matter unless its coil bound a 16in 200 is the same as a 13in 200 if its on a coilover(which it is). I would put whichever bilstein gas shock has the most gas on the LR. Also pull off the 90-10.
Last edited by powerslide; 05-30-2012 at 11:17 AM.
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I dropped the j-bar on the frame with the radius mount & check the squareness of the rearend.
The track was greasy during hot laps, tacky for the heat (slick at bottom), and slick coming out of the turns at the feature.
Track was really close to how it has been all year. I don't have any crew to look at it and give me advice...just going off what I feel on the track and see in photos.
If I take the 90/10 off and take an old shock and drain the oil from it to make a dummy shock would that help keep the rearend end from causing chaos if something breaks?
I do have the option to z-link the RR. What would that do for me?
Last edited by missile07; 05-30-2012 at 11:41 AM.
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Originally Posted by
missile07
I dropped the j-bar on the frame with the radius mount & check the squareness of the rearend.
The track was greasy during hot laps, tacky for the heat (slick at bottom), and slick coming out of the turns at the feature.
Track was really close to how it has been all year. I don't have any crew to look at it and give me advice...just going off what I feel on the track and see in photos.
If I take the 90/10 off and take an old shock and drain the oil from it to make a dummy shock would that help keep the rearend end from causing chaos if something breaks?
i have never tried that w/ a shock but my understanding is oil helps them cool. If you take the oil out it would be like taking oil out of a motor, it will want to lock up. Maybe someone else can chime in and bust my myth but thats the way i look at it. I would suggest a loose chain. I dont run anything if something breaks its probably spitting the driveshaft out anyway. i know your car is probably an overrail so maybe you can weld something in so the rearend wont roll all the way back if it does break.
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Something I failed to bring up is gear ratio at this track. i am running a 5.67 but some of the other locals are running a 5.83 & up. Would running the higher gear help drag the car down in the turns and help it turn in?
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Drilling a shock and letting the oil out is how they used to make a dummy shock, the reason they stopped is the pistion moving back and forth will cause an airflow into and out of the body and it will breath in dust and the added heat will cause it to lock up. The oil is not so much there for lubrication as it is for dampening as it flows thru the piston, the flow is controlled with a valve stack which determines how stiff or soft the shock is.
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When we made our dummy shock, we covered the hole with duct tape and worked fine for us but we only ran it for a few races. We don't use a dummy shock now, we might regret that one night. Good luck
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Originally Posted by
missile07
Something I failed to bring up is gear ratio at this track. i am running a 5.67 but some of the other locals are running a 5.83 & up. Would running the higher gear help drag the car down in the turns and help it turn in?
higher number is a LOWER gear ratio, and yes.... a lower gear will help you into the corners.....slowing down and turning.... cause engine braking is only on the rear tires......and rear helps you turn...
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