Our new car is overheating. 2016 Barry Wright. The motor never got hot in our GRT, but now does. I understand with the front nose basically sitting on the groud during racing, we have limited air flow getting to the radiator, but good downforce. Pulleys are 1 to 1. We run water with antifreeze, and coolant additive. Built a shroud, still gets hot. Single pass radiator, I've tried double pass before in other cars, but didn't notice any difference. 19" fan blade. I'm really trying to do everything to keep from cutting holes in the nose. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Steamin' Hot!
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Are you running the same water pump? Does the new car have a different radiator? Have you changed the restriction in the thermostat housing? Something must have changed, just trying help you nail it down.
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Same radiator (Speedway single pass), same water pump, no restrictor. Tried a thermostat restrictor once, didn't seem to help. I think the shroud helped a little. The biggest difference between the two cars is the GRTs nose was a little up in the air, while the Barry Wright is running basically on the track. I understand it's the way it's supposed to be, but with all the other cars "looking" the same way, wondering why they don't get hot? I really appreciate the ideas. Gotta figure this out.
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If you can grab the fan and turn it , your belts are slipping, and I would guess your pulleys are worn. V belts all slip, thats why 1 to 1 works better than reduction to help compensate for the slip. I went to serpentine and 20% reduction (No more slip, and no more cooling problems)
Dave2012 UMP Stock Car National Champions.
2013 UMP Modified Rookie of the Year
2014 Kankakee Speedway UMP Modified Champion
2016 Fairbury American Legion Speedway UMP Modified Champion
2016 Kankakee Speedway UMP Modified Champion
2016 UMP Modified, Northen IL Regional Champion
2018 UMP Modified, #2 National Points Standings
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I agree with the Dave on the serpentine. I switched to a reduction serp. setup and temps came down. I was not overheating, but it was nice to see a cooler temps, and it frees up a smidge of power not spinning that 19" GM prop as fast.Originally posted by Racer96m View PostIf you can grab the fan and turn it , your belts are slipping, and I would guess your pulleys are worn. V belts all slip, thats why 1 to 1 works better than reduction to help compensate for the slip. I went to serpentine and 20% reduction (No more slip, and no more cooling problems)
DaveI think there should be lifeguards in the genepool.
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Do you have any thing at the bottom in front of the radiator. I was having cooling problems and put a pc. of plastic at the bottom of radiator. Made kind of a inverted spoiler that would scoop air from under car and into radiator. Temps went from over 230 in a heat race to under 200 in the feature on same night.
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sucker
that's A great idea.Originally posted by UltimateRaceCars View Posthttp://www.race-fan.com/
These fans pull a ton of air and you can change the number of blades to tune for your application. The 3 blade version will pull more air than your 4 blade 19" steel fan.I think there should be lifeguards in the genepool.
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Had an issue with car switch there was a small difference in radiator heights which got us into a little bit of a problem with temp. Raised new one up to match old set up heat issue went awayBroc Burton
go.fast.crs@gmail.com
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like renegade said, make sure your getting all the air out of system, I used a bleed valve on top of thermostat housing to bleed , did have a rad that was good at end of season and didn't work at beginning of next, also make sure timing is right and fuel system not to lean , there two of the biggest culprits, hope it helps
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If the nose of car is pinned completely down to the track to where no air can go under at all it doesn't matter what you do. The best fan, shroud or whatever is just going to pull a vacuum like void behind the nose because no air can get there.
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