Whats your input on running a dry sump primer? Is it worth the money? Any issues caused by using one?
dry sump primer
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I always bought a KSE hex drive on the back of all my pumps, then just used an air ratchet and a Allen socket.Originally posted by n4cgrt View PostWhats your input on running a dry sump primer? Is it worth the money? Any issues caused by using one?
If you're talking one the pulleys with a handle on them used in a drill, then they are very handy and useful, never bought one but unless outrageous, I'd have one.
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Not 100% what your asking, but if the priming tool I talked about for a drill (nothing came up in a quick search so I made a crappy drawing)Originally posted by zeroracing View PostBillet, what all is needed to connect like a stock car products pump?

You just take the belt off the pump and hold off to the side and use another old belt and hold drill/pulley assembly over the pump and spin.
If you have the hex drive in the back of the pump remove P/S or KSE and remove belt off pump and use an air ratchet to spin the pump.
Peterson makes an primer and one that is made into the oil filter mount that looks easy as hell, if you want to get something much easier then the 2 ways I listed. Google dry sump primer tool, then go to images.Last edited by billetbirdcage; 03-08-2018, 10:17 PM.
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I should add I generally only prime a dry sump is if it's new and lines are empty, not every week. Basically only when installing a new engine to fill the lines, cooler, and etc. Week to week just spinning with starter till you see movement on gauge is good enough for me.
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I've done the same as what Billet described (off the back of the pump). But do be aware, the hex fitting can loosen from the pumps main shaft (at least on my SCP pump it can). I found out the hard way as it loosened up and oil started running out the back.
I also just prime that way when the system is first put together, then rely on cranking without ignition to get some PSI before I start it.Last edited by TheJet-09; 03-14-2018, 06:36 PM.
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I just crank to get pressure after changing the oil, but often have the plugs out so it doesn't overburden the starter/battery. I also crank for about 5-10 seconds, then let it sit for a minute or two so the starter cools off some. Usually it only takes 3-4 cycles of that to get pressure.
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I prime every time I do an oil change.Originally posted by shawburn View PostShould you prime when you do oil and filter change? Or do you crank engine to get pressure? Thanks.
The way I prime it is:
1) slide the belt off the back of the pulley
2) put a used belt (I call it my priming belt) on the pulley
3) sit between the pass door and frame with a drill
4) With the priming belt on the pulley also put the belt around the nose of the dril
5) Pull the belt tight and run it is reverse until my wife (who is watching the oil pressure gauge) yells that I have oil pressure.
6) Take priming belt off and slide the real belt back on the pulley
7) adjust pump so belt is tight and tighten the pump
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These are pretty sweet if you have money to burn but I think as often as you would use it, it wouldn't be worth the money. All the other ways guys mentioned work just fine for a lot lessAttached Files
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Whoa, I didn't know about those. I'm going to have to get one, that will save a ton of time (when you're a one man show saving time matters).Originally posted by powerslide View PostThese are pretty sweet if you have money to burn but I think as often as you would use it, it wouldn't be worth the money. All the other ways guys mentioned work just fine for a lot less
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Again, i have one that has about 10 races on it. Couldnt use it on the bloomquist car because of the in-board header.Originally posted by cjsracing View PostWhoa, I didn't know about those. I'm going to have to get one, that will save a ton of time (when you're a one man show saving time matters).
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