Water Pressure switch

[Jim11h]

Much appreciated. Told guys I'll try Saturday and if don't go out I'll disconnect for night

[Jim11h]

Well light never went out. I've got the tall thermostat housing and that's where mounted it. Used reducer to fit. Car was 180 and light still on. It did flicker around the 140-150 but when on throttle brightened right back up. Any thoughts?

[billetbirdcage]

Well light never went out. I've got the tall thermostat housing and that's where mounted it. Used reducer to fit. Car was 180 and light still on. It did flicker around the 140-150 but when on throttle brightened right back up. Any thoughts?

Jim, here's a couple ways to test what's wrong or if you have a bad sender

1. Unplug wire from sender, the light should go out. If it does then the sensor either is the wrong pressure rating or just just bad and not breaking the continuity to ground at the 4 PSI.

2. Use or go down to O'reilly's auto parts or etc and borrow/get a radiator system tester to pump up the cooling system. With light on and no pressure in system, pump up the cooling system and watch light at around 4 to 5 PSI on pump gauge it should go out. If not, you can pump up higher and see when it does and that would be the rating PSI of senor (maybe you got a 20# low oil sensor, by mistake).

If it's not wired correctly (#1) then most likely you have the (#2) a bad sensor or wrong one.

[Jim11h]

Thanks billet I'll try that. It's all new so was kinda leaning toward wrong sending unit. Wiring nearly impossible to mess up

[Krooser]

How about the old school light? I rubber hose coming from the radiator overflow to the RF A-pillar. When you see steam you know your getting hot.

[Len72P]

Light is a must have , I popped a welch plug ( block plug ) on a new motor. The water leaves the system so fast the temp gauge doesn't move. Reading will continue at whatever you were at temp. wise. Frys a motor real quick.