One thing about a pull down rig thats always stumped me is, why do they pull it down with the wheels straight? or do they do it in a dynamic steering condition? A dirt car is very rarely straight at full or 90% hike, down the straights. I watched one being worked on once, and the bump steer, camber, wheels weights etc were all down with the wheels dead straight, to me thats about as bad as doing things from ride.
Dynamic front end settings
Collapse
X
-
Ghopper, attached images don't work here, you will need to upload to imgur or something like that and post link.Originally posted by Ghopperimage attempt #2
also if you want the link to show up, put [img] and [/img] before and after the linkLast edited by billetbirdcage; 03-16-2021, 05:16 PM.
Comment
-
My shock guy's main cars are xr1's. His car has won alot of big crate races the past couple of years.My posts about lower rr deck heights came about because I noticed his cars and a couple national drivers cars were setup that way also.Originally posted by MasterSbilt_Racer View PostMy rr shock rubber won't move 3" in 3 races.
That said,
I agree, you have to put the whole package together. If not, you are the guy who asks 10 racers about an adjustment and winds up doing a little of each suggestion. Those guys are lapped traffic.
My cars would be undrivable if the rr ever compressed 3". That doesn't mean someone else's car wouldn't work.
Obviously, we have a b/g and have tweaked on his setup quite a bit but we havent got there quite yet.
Comment
-
I apologize for hi-jacking the thread, but hopefully it's also relevant:
When checking bump steer on the RF, are you starting at ride height, or starting at a compressed point less than ride height? Or, in addition, would it be bad to toe in some (maybe 0.020") during the first three inches of compression (out at the hub), as long as it was back to zero and started to toe out from there?
I messed with it quite a bit and got this (eliminating the initial toe in), as of now:
1" - 0.008" out
2" - 0.035" out
3" - 0.084" out (this point is roughly 1 3/4" of shock compression)
4" - 0.150" out
5" - 0.233" out
6" - 0.332" out (this point is roughly 3 1/2" of shock compression)
The toe out numbers are the total measured at that point (not the difference from the previous spot). I can't go any further without modifying my gauge somehow, most definitely the plate the dial indicator measures off of. And I did search some prior threads on the subject (some very beneficial info), but I didn't come across a concrete number on where to start (compression wise).
Any feedback (like if those numbers seem realistic, or off somehow) is appreciated. Thanks!
Comment
Comment