Rich condition will cause the glowing red header tubes...Ego is right, it is unburned gas in the header that causes it...If it was a lean condition, that poor old aluminum piston would have been melted before the header tubes got glowing...LOL
header glowingI
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Well i found that the right side bank plugs looked ashe.. Which i think is ok, left side was white but 3 out of the 4 headers where cracked im guess because of the over heating. engine idles and runs fin when i throttle, lifting everything. But just sitting at idle waiting to hit the track the temp shoots right up. Where going to redo the timing tommarow. I checked the valves they all where correct.
We also where told to run 113 instead of 110. We switched back to the orig plugs. BTW this is alum head motor with a 600 holley carb.
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What is your compression??? 113 is STIFF and hard to burn, this may be the cause. I would bet that your cracks are from vibration and that may also be allowing air in and causing the tubes to get hot.Originally posted by vms View PostWell i found that the right side bank plugs looked ashe.. Which i think is ok, left side was white but 3 out of the 4 headers where cracked im guess because of the over heating. engine idles and runs fin when i throttle, lifting everything. But just sitting at idle waiting to hit the track the temp shoots right up. Where going to redo the timing tommarow. I checked the valves they all where correct.
We also where told to run 113 instead of 110. We switched back to the orig plugs. BTW this is alum head motor with a 600 holley carb.
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Yes "the higher the better" is not the case with Octane rating. You want the correct octane for your compression ratio/timing to gain max power. This is why most older street cars (without variable timing) do better with regular (87) over premium (93)
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If you have it wired to spin up before firing I have not had a single problem running them locked. I did have one stick before I started locking them and it did not advance and it melted the motor down. I would MUCH rather replace a flywheel than pistons, heads and a block.Originally posted by Living_TruthWhole other can of worms there! Not everyone locks them out. I tried to once, and broke 3 teeth off a flywheel over the course of 2 weeks.
~22* idle and 36* @ 7000 works fine for me. Nice and easy on the starter as well.

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I have never seen a serious race car not run a locked out distributor. Every major engine builder I know of has them locked out. You can spin the engine over and get oil where it's supposed to be, flip the ignition switch and your fired...Very simple...Not a grocery getter...A centrifigal advance is one more thing that can go wrong...I have NEVER seen another DLM where they are not set up the way I just mentioned...
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We had perfect jetting in our horse for 110.Ran 113 thru it one night same jets nothing else changed and the inside of the headers were Black, plugs also. Went back to the 110 and they went back Grey. Was told 113 needed bigger jets ???????????
The Blacksheep cometh ! With old bent sh!t that just keeps getting faster !
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If it was black it was rich, Octane is a requirement of compression NOT a jet sized adjustment. A smaller jet may make it better but you are making the combo lean to run hotter to burn the higher compression fuel.Originally posted by 1Blacksheep View PostWe had perfect jetting in our horse for 110.Ran 113 thru it one night same jets nothing else changed and the inside of the headers were Black, plugs also. Went back to the 110 and they went back Grey. Was told 113 needed bigger jets ???????????
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