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We have tried alot of different combinations. We have let the chain open up to an extreme allowing for excessive bar angle, than to get the rear steer out we lengthen the arms. We have tried holding the car down so it limits the travel, than moving the bar angles to where we need them at dynamic, and shortening arms. Holding the car down seems to me that you keep the car more balanced and more weight available toward the back of the car. Any comments? Cuz when you hold the car down you dont have as much travel or as much rear end movement. What do you think about what setups work best with oval tracks vs. tight corner-long straight away tracks. Seems like less rear steer is better for longer straight away as it keeps wheels in line. and oval tracks might need more rear steer as your turning the whole time. thoughts??
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This theory is what i am questioning from another?
"That being said, I know of some people (can't say I'm one of them at the moment) that increase their compression and gas pressure on their LR shocks so that the car maintains more rear steer on entry (doesn't fall off the bars as hard) and turns easier. Just food for thought"
i see some conflicting info on this theory. First what can help turn the car on entry is the left rear spring rate. As the car comes down on the spring, doesnt this help turn the car, which is why generally you stiffen LR to loosen entry. Also, one observation is ask yourself which way the rear is pointed when you want to enter the corner if you keep the rear steer in it. Out and toward the wall. I actually think that if you let the rear end settle before entry you will have a better entry as the rearend is inline with the track. Also, if you add rear steer for dryslick to maintain patch contact. The hardest concept i think to grasp is you actually want less rear steer on a tacky track as you need the tires to be able to break the contact patch in order for the car to turn. I see alot of people adding rear steer on tacky tracks. Any experience with these thoughts?Comment
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Axle drop or limit (on either side) determines the dynamic wedge of the car. In the corner there is little time that the car is not at the limit of LR travel.
The 4-bars will determine rear steer at limit and a portion of the dynamic wedge during the transition between static ride height and full limit. The absolute dynamic wedge limit is set by the hard stop (chain, damper, underrail)......................combined with the spring rate/mechanical stiffness of the other corners of our 3 legged tables
...now I need to go back to work preparing for a trip to China (for auto customers), so I can make money for my Belgian employer, so they keep paying skilled workers in the USA.....that spend it all on dirt cars and taxes
GhopperComment
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The whole thing with using the high rebound and high gas pressure LR shocks to hold up the car and generate rear steer on corner entry for a tacky track was suggested to me by a very reputable shock and setup guy. So I have no doubt that it works given the right conditions (meaning track conditions and driving style). But I can't say I've tried it yet as we don't typically have issues with tight corner entry on heavy tracks. We HAVE had issues with tight from center off on heavy tracks and we have found ways to deal with that (more top RR bar angle, less RR shock rebound, etc.)
That being said, we're probably treading into the territory of "what works for some won't work for others". Many other variables here including the aforementioned track configuration. The biggest variable still is probably the nut between the seat and the steering wheel. A "throw and go" type driver is going to be on a completely different setup than a guy that likes to drive the car straighter on entry then needs it to rotate more in the center. Both driving styles can work in any track condition (to an extent) but the setup needs to match what the driver is trying to do. That or convince your driver to change his style...good luck with that, right :-)Comment
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Something to consider on this subject as the track slows down and the driver starts driving the car straighter, feathering the throttle more etc... the car is going to naturally generate less rear steer on its own or at least at a slower pace.Comment
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I have the LR caliper floated on my Rocket. I have noticed that when I am in traffic or when the track slicks off,I lightly trail brake my car and get it to rotate from the center off. I may be wrong,but to me it feels like it keeps my car up on LR to help car with rear steer along with RF lightly pinned to turn from center off. I also have the RR chained,as it also seems to prevent excessive droop. I know everybody drives different and there are many varibles involved. But this car is almost like point and shoot with this set-up. I also want to mention that it is a crate carComment
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What should the travel be from bottom of top bar to top of axel
What should the total travel be from bottom of top bar to top of axel so that I could figure out the length of chai needed.Comment
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i was just messing with you buddy, been away a few days and just got back, i have not run a chain in years, well since we started running underslung frames, i have come up with a type of bump stop type thing that i clamp to the underslung frame where the axle tube hits and ive still got some work to do but i think im on the right track.Originally posted by MasterSbilt_Racer View PostComment
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No problem. I like putting a bump on the undersling if you have one.Originally posted by fastford View PostModern Day Spec Wedge RacingComment
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the one i made first is a little to soft, but ive got some different rubber im gone try next, but even with the soft rubber it made a noticeable differenceOriginally posted by MasterSbilt_Racer View PostComment
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