Question on bump stops.

[HuckleberryB4]

How much BUMP STOP compression/travel do you usually want when using a bump on the RF?

[7uptruckracer]

Depends on your bump you don't want to compress the bump more then half its static height. Go to RE suspension look up the different style and they have their wheel loading charts with them so you can see how much travel relates to how much load. Most Dirt cars run the Christmas tree style

[HuckleberryB4]

I've been on RE looking on their charts and that's what led to my question. I'd like to soften up the RF some because the track has went very dry slick, but have no idea how much bump stop I'm currently using and honestly don't know how much is acceptable. I'm on a stacked RF (240 spring combo) and want to eliminate the stack. So I'm looking at using the bump more and using a conventional single spring setup. Thanks.

[hpmaster]

It's more a load at a specific travel question. Really doubt you are going to get a whole lot more than that on here. I now shut my mouth and sit in the corner.

[fastford]

when I was on a bump stop, I used the re suspension Christmas tree style with a 250 spring , It wasn't compressing enough to start with so I cut the top ring off, then it went a little to much so I used the shims to fine tune. I don't know if you meant two stage or stacked when you were talking about the set up you were running, the bump stop was fast on a very very smooth slick track, but any roughness and its terrible on equipment, im on a two stage set up now and I like it the best all the way around, it gives you the soft rate to get you in then when it hits the second spanner or second stage your on a stiff spring to get you off the corner, its a lot better all the way around but you need a good shock specialist because it takes a lot of low speed control on your shock to make this work properly, this is also true for the bump set up as well.

[Matt49]

when I was on a bump stop, I used the re suspension Christmas tree style with a 250 spring , It wasn't compressing enough to start with so I cut the top ring off, then it went a little to much so I used the shims to fine tune. I don't know if you meant two stage or stacked when you were talking about the set up you were running, the bump stop was fast on a very very smooth slick track, but any roughness and its terrible on equipment, im on a two stage set up now and I like it the best all the way around, it gives you the soft rate to get you in then when it hits the second spanner or second stage your on a stiff spring to get you off the corner, its a lot better all the way around but you need a good shock specialist because it takes a lot of low speed control on your shock to make this work properly, this is also true for the bump set up as well.

100% agree. The dual stage spring setup is much more forgiving on setup and equipment than even the softest bump stop. You've got to have the right shock setup to make it work right though. The reason many try it and it "doesn't work" is because they didn't have the right shock package.

[HuckleberryB4]

Sorry for the confusion. I am on the 2 stage. 600/400. On a fast tacky track I love it. The car gets a ton of forward bite and the side bite is naturally there. On a slick track the car just wants to skate on entry. I put a camera on my RF and from the instant I get on the gas it's on the lock rings and the single 400lb spring for the whole race. This is obviously why it's skating. So I figured if it was on the main spring the whole time, I might as well eliminate the 2 stage and go to a softer spring and a bump to get into the corners.

[HuckleberryB4]

How much gap between the slider and lock rings is too much? Is there a point where it's better to change springs than to keep increasing the gap?

[fastford]

im on two 500 springs and at ride height there is a little over 1 inch to lock ring, the two 500s gave me the same feel getting into corner as the 250 with bump but if your shock isn't right it will unload in middle and you loose drive off, like matt said, a lot of people try this without the complete package and think its junk, if your not willing to stick with it a while and learn how to use it , its probably better to stay with more conventional set up

[grt74]

Sorry for the confusion. I am on the 2 stage. 600/400. On a fast tacky track I love it. The car gets a ton of forward bite and the side bite is naturally there. On a slick track the car just wants to skate on entry. I put a camera on my RF and from the instant I get on the gas it's on the lock rings and the single 400lb spring for the whole race. This is obviously why it's skating. So I figured if it was on the main spring the whole time, I might as well eliminate the 2 stage and go to a softer spring and a bump to get into the corners.

weve done alot of this (stacked springs and bumps),looking at your set up,i would swap the springs around and run the 600 on the bottom and reset your lock nut with a little more gap,but all of this takes tons of time and you really need a shock/spring rater to help,so you know where you are and where your going,also shock packages are a huge factor in these setups(its not for everyone)as matt has said,also i know i will get tons of questions on this,guys it takes tons of time and testing, there is not a perfect setting on this stuff,different cars,diff drivers,tracks,and so on

[HuckleberryB4]

My shocks shouldn't be an issue. If someone would like to take a look at the vid of my RF setup during a heat race I'd appreciate it. Just give me your email address. Thanks.

[hucktyson]

Most of the blazing fast touring guys are running them and none of the blazing fast touring guys crew chiefs are on this board trying to tell anyone else what those blazing fast guys are doing ...

[hpmaster]

If you run stacked spring set up or shocks with opposing lock rings make sure you use 2" o-rings between your locks. Yup you should have a shock/spring rater or you can miss what you need by a very small amount, as for making work it takes time to learn.

[hpmaster]

Most of the blazing fast touring guys are running them and none of the blazing fast touring guys crew chiefs are on this board trying to tell anyone else what those blazing fast guys are doing ...

And that my friends is the blazing fast truth

[7uptruckracer]

Sorry for the confusion. I am on the 2 stage. 600/400. On a fast tacky track I love it. The car gets a ton of forward bite and the side bite is naturally there. On a slick track the car just wants to skate on entry. I put a camera on my RF and from the instant I get on the gas it's on the lock rings and the single 400lb spring for the whole race. This is obviously why it's skating. So I figured if it was on the main spring the whole time, I might as well eliminate the 2 stage and go to a softer spring and a bump to get into the corners.

If you never come off the lockdown like someone said assess your shock package that would be a concern for your bleed setting. A regular tie down shock doesn't work for this for that reason you never come back off the lockout and it defeats the purpose of what you are trying to do. Most baseline adjustments are 1.5-.75" of a gap but don't be afraid to think outside the box once you get it working. I like the 700/400 myself. As far as bumpstops softer spring will make it engage quicker so you actually hit the bump sooner and travel more so it will actually RAISE your wheel loading. So work with different bumps and you can rig up an external travel indicator to know how far your engaging a bumpstop package to calculate added wheel loadings. A stiffer spring will get you a combined lower wheel loading then a softer one because bumps tend to be really progressive. A lot of guys are working with bumpsprings now as well because like regulars springs they have linear and not progressive curves. On either package consult a reputable shock guy who runs the setups to get you on the right rebound numbers and bleed they don't work right if you stay pinned!