Question on bump stops.

[let-r-eat]

Yeah,All the fast guys crew chiefs are surfing porn sites.

[HuckleberryB4]

If you never come off the lockdown like someone said assess your shock package that would be a concern for your bleed setting. A regular tie down shock doesn't work for this for that reason you never come back off the lockout and it defeats the purpose of what you are trying to do. Most baseline adjustments are 1.5-.75" of a gap but don't be afraid to think outside the box once you get it working. I like the 700/400 myself. As far as bumpstops softer spring will make it engage quicker so you actually hit the bump sooner and travel more so it will actually RAISE your wheel loading. So work with different bumps and you can rig up an external travel indicator to know how far your engaging a bumpstop package to calculate added wheel loadings. A stiffer spring will get you a combined lower wheel loading then a softer one because bumps tend to be really progressive. A lot of guys are working with bumpsprings now as well because like regulars springs they have linear and not progressive curves. On either package consult a reputable shock guy who runs the setups to get you on the right rebound numbers and bleed they don't work right if you stay pinned!

And that seems to be the problem, it's staying pinned, it never rebounds to reset for corner entry. Part of that is my fault because I never lessened the rebound settings. This thread has helped a lot and I'm glad I have video to refer too. I've already contacted Kenny at B&O to see what the shock needs as I believe it's currently setup to be a tie down shock. I'll play with bump stop spacing too.

One last question for you fellas. Does the 600/400 combo seem too light for a full cast motor car?

[7uptruckracer]

And that seems to be the problem, it's staying pinned, it never rebounds to reset for corner entry. Part of that is my fault because I never lessened the rebound settings. This thread has helped a lot and I'm glad I have video to refer too. I've already contacted Kenny at B&O to see what the shock needs as I believe it's currently setup to be a tie down shock. I'll play with bump stop spacing too.

One last question for you fellas. Does the 600/400 combo seem too light for a full cast motor car?

Kenny will definitely get you right! I know he's running rf bumps! I don't see as many on 600/400 period regardless of motor make sure you have the right height springs to that 4" spring crap coilbinds

[grt74]

most of the blazing fast touring guys are running them and none of the blazing fast touring guys crew chiefs are on this board trying to tell anyone else what those blazing fast guys are doing ...

there are alot of guys still running standard springs with a ton of success,its all really a package deal as ive said before but i will say this we currently have 3 different double adjustable shocks for the rf on all of our cars because they all have different levels of control,i think most people get caught up on shock names themselves and not whats in them,valving,bleed,different pistons,ect, all of that and then some goes into building a shock,the easest way to know what you need is to know where you are and then where you what to go and keep very and i mean very good notes,so that even if you have a shock built and it doesnt work youll have notes on what it did to the car,and then you may use it later,
i hope i helped explain it some,but shocks can be very overwhelming,before you go nuts get someone to explain a shock graph and have them explain it in a way that you understand,if you dont understand the graph its going to be hard to move forward
but all setups above will work,standard springs,stacked(with a lock nut),and bumps,of coarse the shock will have to have different levels of control for each setup,top level guys are winning with the standard stuff still too,but they drive different than the other guys
good luck guys,and test test test,it will save a ton of money in the end,not to mention the work of fixing a wrecked car every week
hope i helped some

[HuckleberryB4]

7uptruckracer, what springs are most guys on? I'm on the 4" 600 (top) and a 10" 400 (bottom). I mentioned above that I ran a camera on the RF one night and it's not coil binding. It's definitely compressing the 400 and the bump.

[mab475]

First off not running a 247 combo. A 600/400 is a 300 and you have them backwards.

[grt74]

[QUOTE=mab475;1815906]First off not running a 247 combo. A 600/400 is a 300 and you have them backwards.[/QU



REALLY ITS 600X400=240000 THEN DIVIDED BY 600+400=1000,240000 DIVIDED BY 1000=240, THATS WHAT HE HAS AND YES THE 400 SHOULD BE ON TOP OF THE 600 WITH THE LOCK NUT HITTING THE 600,WE HAVE TRIED ALL KINDS OF STACKS AND YOU WOULD BE SURPRIZED AT WHAT SPRING RATES SOME GUYS USE
JUST DONT OVER THINK IT GUYS,ITS ALL IN THE MATH AND TESTING

[grt74]

it's more a load at a specific travel question. Really doubt you are going to get a whole lot more than that on here. I now shut my mouth and sit in the corner.

this guy understands,im done now,ill go to my corner,but if the cars skating that bad it makes me wonder if your looking in the right place to fix it

[Matt49]

I want to add that you don't have to have a spring tester to figure this stuff out. Some pretty simple math will tell you exactly how far the slider travels for a given amount of shock travel. So if you know your gap, you should be able to easily calculate how much travel it takes to close it as long as you know your spring rates.

[HuckleberryB4]

This may be a dumb question but, If I were to swap the springs so I had a 4" 400 on the top and a 10" 600 on bottom, wouldn't the 400 want to coil bind? I'm guessing I'd probably have to run those rates at a 6" 400 and 8" 600.

[HuckleberryB4]

This is beginning to make sense now, but I'm curious as to what happens when you reduce the split between the two springs? Let's say I wanted to raise the combined stacked rate so the big spring engages later. So rather that running a 400/600 stack, I chose to run a 500/600 stack. Is there anything else affected by reducing split other than raising the overall spring weight and getting on the big spring later? Again, I apologize for my ignorance. Just trying to learn and understand. Thanks for your time guys.

[swartzman]

GRT 74 I will tell you now u r correct.. they r not even looking at the right place.. get the dang car off left rear weight and get some right side on it.. and just who are the blazing fast guys? FORGET THE TRICK OF THE DAY CRAP.. keep it simple.. guys come on..

[7uptruckracer]

7uptruckracer, what springs are most guys on? I'm on the 4" 600 (top) and a 10" 400 (bottom). I mentioned above that I ran a camera on the RF one night and it's not coil binding. It's definitely compressing the 400 and the bump.

Just curious why you mentioned a dual stage and a bump in the same thing? Are you on a stack (two springs stacked with a nylon separator) or a dual stage (two springs with lockout nuts) because you can't run a bump with all that stuff, well I mean you can but you'd have to get your wheel loadings right with a gale force or something and its two tools to do the same thing?

[HuckleberryB4]

I'm not looking for a trick setup. I'm trying to understand the 2 staged RF setup. The guy who put me on it obviously didn't know either. So what I thought I "might" have understood, I didn't.

I've still been a top 5 car with it, so my setup must not be too far off. But in the slick on the 2 stage, I can feel the car is LOOSER getting in and I have to wait longer than normal to get back to the gas. It's not skating around the track like some of you may be thinking.


So back to the question on reducing the split of the stacked springs..........would someone please provide me with some insight on this. Thanks again.

[HuckleberryB4]

I'm on a dual stage WITH the lock rings AND a bump stop. This is the way the guy set me up and it was on his Gale Force.