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Has anyone tried putting taller spindles (like an S7, BWRC, or Grt style) on the front end of the newer Rayburn cars? Seems to me with the new 4 bar updates the only thing lacking would be the taller spindles with the new pin height changes in them. Any thoughts?
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I'm thinking of using the S7 spindle. Surely someone out there has put an S7 spindle on their Rayburn and has an opinion. What about the a Rocket black spindle or a newer Barry Wright? -
I have been considering an s7 installation on one.Modern Day Spec Wedge RacingComment
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If you pull all of the measurements in the fronts on the Rayburn and a smack car they are dangerously close to one another. I just refuse to believe that they are as far out as people say they are. I drove a brand new one twice last year with very minimal changes and the car was pretty good. I qualified in the top 3 and finished in the top 4 both times. It steers like a dream but it didn't have quite as much dig as the Rockets and Swartz cars that I drove in the past. I feel it definitely had a good baseline to start with. We have already started moving things around in the back end. I really think it would benefit from a taller spindle.Comment
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I'm all ears on this one.Comment
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Don't waste your time, I wasted 6 years trying to make it work. You will get close but in the end it is still a car that will not keep up. Times have changed. JMHOComment
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bloomer was not as good 6 months ago either but wow enough said.Originally posted by hpmaster View PostComment
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What changes did you try? Did you change spindles? Uppers? Shock locations? Any rear end adjustments? If so what did you find? The one I drove turned very well just needed to be a little tighter over all. Maybe a rf stack or shimmed bumps. Any input would be appreciatedComment
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I went through many spindle combinations on Masters, GRT's and Rayburns. That includes different combinations of uppers and lowers plus putting the uppers on slider mounts to dial in and try different roll center theory's on placements. Many of the spindles available are so very similar using them without changing the mounting points on the chassis the change in performance is negligible. I used dozens of combinations of stacked springs and bumps. Like I said before these cars were not bad and in many cases were faster into and thru a corner than all others. We tried many different combinations on the rear of 4 bar cars and even had very good success with a highly modified Rayburn swing arm car. The 4 bar cars were extensively changed with different widths, axle combinations, 4 bar mounting points and bar lengths. I could go on and on. We had solid top 5 cars, but not consistent winning cars doing this until we learned to think differently. As we build chassis and update cars I am not going to spoon feed all my data it took us years to learn but simply said what I said so guys trying this will stop thinking about parts changing and get to tire loading, caster change and camber gain. Read everything ever written on building race cars, there were some brilliant engineers working on this over the past 100 years. JMHOOriginally posted by DGI View PostLast edited by hpmaster; 11-22-2014, 07:50 AM.Comment
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Thanks for not spoon feeding all of your extensive knowledge about this subject. I'm sure we would all struggle processing. I'll take a consistent top five car everyday. But I may be crazy. We will just work to figure it out ourselves I guess. I hope we don't waste too much time. Thanks for your help HPComment
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been there done that ! cut the back of a pierce put it on your rayburn, it will be fast or just buy a older pierce and race itComment
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DGI it sounds like your saying that the car turns too well currently ... So why do you want to remove traction from the front end instead of adding traction to the rear end ? Just wondering ...Comment
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DGI clear out some of your private messages. Can't send you oneComment
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Fixed. ThanksComment
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