I stiffened the 5th to a 300, also put a 300 on RR along with a super high rebound RF. Helped the car tremendously! Now I still have a tick too much traction. Car has a hopping effect on exit but I'm kind of leaning to putting a dummy on LR.
Too much TRACTION!
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shorten the lr chain limiter,but it will only take a little say a 1/4 inch,just remember if it gets super slick you need to let it back out,there is also alot of different areas to take away traction so its hard to say,i guess my question would be where does it have to much traction(I'm guessing off the corner and causing a push)you could lengthen the rr or more stagger,if the right side tires are in the track to hard you could go up on your left side%,just need to know where in the corner to help,if the rear tires are in the track to hard you could loose some rear weight,see what I'm saying there are alot of different ways to free up a car,if you have it that close you could try a 1" spacer on the rr as an easy adjustment that way when it slicks off you can take it back offOriginally posted by TLM4t4 View PostI stiffened the 5th to a 300, also put a 300 on RR along with a super high rebound RF. Helped the car tremendously! Now I still have a tick too much traction. Car has a hopping effect on exit but I'm kind of leaning to putting a dummy on LR.Last edited by grt74; 05-20-2015, 09:26 AM.
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On the Smack cars I worked on, we would start with a 300 in the second hole forward.When the track slicked off, we would put a 325 in the first hole.This is what the house car was doing at the time along with several other adj to tighten it up.As a crew chief, I never worked so hard between heats and feature, trying to get the car tight enough.There was a lot of time consuming adjustments.Lions don't worry about the opinions of sheep.
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so i have read this again and you have said that you want to take traction out and the adjustments you have made above adds traction to the car,so let me explain why,the 5th coil you went from a 250 to a 300(this will load the rear tires quicker and harder)I'm guessing it was at the same measurement,next you went from a 250 rr to a 300 rr,what did that do???well it put the rr in the track more(simple physics),yes it frees it up on exit(because of the added traction)but it also tightens it up on entry(again because of added traction)so with all of this said,you have added traction to the car!!!and didn't take it away like you have said you wanted to do(not being a wise guy just trying to explain a little) but what I've said before on the last post if its hopping on the gas coming off the corner and down the straightaway look at the lr chain limiter,just trying to help,Originally posted by TLM4t4 View PostI stiffened the 5th to a 300, also put a 300 on RR along with a super high rebound RF. Helped the car tremendously! Now I still have a tick too much traction. Car has a hopping effect on exit but I'm kind of leaning to putting a dummy on LR.
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With a stiffer fifth coil, you have taken less weight transfer off of the front tires. The more wrap up you get, to a point, the more weight is transferred.Originally posted by grt74 View Postso i have read this again and you have said that you want to take traction out and the adjustments you have made above adds traction to the car,so let me explain why,the 5th coil you went from a 250 to a 300(this will load the rear tires quicker and harder)I'm guessing it was at the same measurement,next you went from a 250 rr to a 300 rr,what did that do???well it put the rr in the track more(simple physics),yes it frees it up on exit(because of the added traction)but it also tightens it up on entry(again because of added traction)so with all of this said,you have added traction to the car!!!and didn't take it away like you have said you wanted to do(not being a wise guy just trying to explain a little) but what I've said before on the last post if its hopping on the gas coming off the corner and down the straightaway look at the lr chain limiter,just trying to help,
Now, I do agree with you on the RR change. He added traction to that corner, off of the gas, but that's a small adj and he felt it helped him more off the corner.Lions don't worry about the opinions of sheep.
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if you compress the springs 2 1/2 inches each(250x2.5=625,300x2.5=700)which one is loaded more,now i do agree you can go to far on the 5th coil because there are other factors there that are needed (track conditions and or traction available,because if you were on ice you would go very soft because of the track conditions),so with all of that said, if you use above,you would have 75 lbs more of lifting force on the 5th arm bar,which in theory should load the tires harder(which is added traction)Originally posted by 25drtrkr View PostWith a stiffer fifth coil, you have taken less weight transfer off of the front tires. The more wrap up you get, to a point, the more weight is transferred.
Now, I do agree with you on the RR change. He added traction to that corner, off of the gas, but that's a small adj and he felt it helped him more off the corner.
there are a lot of factors for the 5th coil area,it has to be a combination of traction available,spring rate,wrap up,where the top of the 5th arm is mounted,and how far out it is mounted on the bottom from the rear end housing,but if all he did is change his spring to a 300 from a 250,he added quicker traction,ill leave it alone now,and I'm not trying to be a wise guy,just trying to explain a little,good luck to all
on the rr he added traction to the entire corner(it helped turn the car on the gas because of the added traction)Last edited by grt74; 05-21-2015, 09:28 AM.
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but yes some will think that you have added traction to a car by softing a 5th coil spring and in some cases you do,but its because the softer spring doesn't shock the tires as hard and in most cases you have limited traction, if one doesn't believe me just do your own little test,start at 250 and work your way up to say a 450 in 50lb increments,if the traction is consistent the car will get faster and faster but there will come a point that it will start to pick up the front end off the ground(now theres some traction)or the traction will be limited(because of track conditions) and it will start to buzz the tires,its all a compromiseLast edited by grt74; 05-21-2015, 09:44 AM.
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It doesn't work like that. That would be the same as softening the rf to gain more forward traction.Instead, when you soften the rf, all you have done is increase weight transfer to the rr. Not only is that is what I felt from experience, but also the Rocket camp has confirmed that with me during many conversations.Originally posted by grt74 View Postif you compress the springs 2 1/2 inches each(250x2.5=625,300x2.5=700)which one is loaded more,now i do agree you can go to far on the 5th coil because there are other factors there that are needed (track conditions and or traction available,because if you were on ice you would go very soft because of the track conditions),so with all of that said, if you use above,you would have 75 lbs more of lifting force on the 5th arm bar,which in theory should load the tires harder(which is added traction)
there are a lot of factors for the 5th coil area,it has to be a combination of traction available,spring rate,wrap up,where the top of the 5th arm is mounted,and how far out it is mounted on the bottom from the rear end housing,but if all he did is change his spring to a 300 from a 250,he added quicker traction,ill leave it alone now,and I'm not trying to be a wise guy,just trying to explain a little,good luck to all
on the rr he added traction to the entire corner(it helped turn the car on the gas because of the added traction)Lions don't worry about the opinions of sheep.
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any time you add spring rate anywhere on a car, your adding traction,but just like anything on a race car you can over do it and it will cause crazy effects,yes i agree with your above statement,a softer spring on the rf takes traction away(it looses forward traction),and if your speaking on the 5th coil area,just try the test,good luck,I'm probably to technical at times for my own goodOriginally posted by 25drtrkr View PostIt doesn't work like that. That would be the same as softening the rf to gain more forward traction.Instead, when you soften the rf, all you have done is increase weight transfer to the rr. Not only is that is what I felt from experience, but also the Rocket camp has confirmed that with me during many conversations.Last edited by grt74; 05-22-2015, 07:59 PM.
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So if your car wont turn on entry, you put more rf spring. That doesn't work on the tracks I race at. I'm certainly not bragging, but I've been doing this for 25 plus years. I've tested just about everything on 5th coil setups and longer/softer 5th coils gave more forward bite.Fifth coils are torque absorbers so you don't shear the tires contact patch. Maybe its just the sandy clays we race on, but Josh Richards told me he does the same adj.Originally posted by grt74 View Postany time you add spring rate anywhere on a car, your adding traction,but just like anything on a race car you can over do it and it will cause crazy effects,yes i agree with your above statement,a softer spring on the rf takes traction away(it looses forward traction),and if your speaking on the 5th coil area,just try the test,good luck,I'm probably to technical at times for my own goodLions don't worry about the opinions of sheep.
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i give up,good luck it sounds like you have it figured out,there are 4 corners to the car,you have to figure out which adjustment works for you,Originally posted by 25drtrkr View PostSo if your car wont turn on entry, you put more rf spring. That doesn't work on the tracks I race at. I'm certainly not bragging, but I've been doing this for 25 plus years. I've tested just about everything on 5th coil setups and longer/softer 5th coils gave more forward bite.Fifth coils are torque absorbers so you don't shear the tires contact patch. Maybe its just the sandy clays we race on, but Josh Richards told me he does the same adj.
and if a softer 5th coil gave your car more forward bite,back up your explanation on why,i think you will find my post to be true,hey by all means I've been wrong before and ill be wrong again and I'm not perfect,and like I've have said i agree with some of your statements,as far as how it made the car handle,but my question to you is why did it make or help the handling of the car better,I'm speaking mostly from a physics stand point and testing(and i do some crazy things testing 99% of the time i don't find anything but every now and then you find a ton)
good luck to all and i hope I've helped some,i really don't give the whole answers away,i try to tell someone how and why on there race cars and let them make there decisions,so they learn alsoLast edited by grt74; 05-23-2015, 08:31 AM.
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SMH.....I wish I had it figured out! But that's what keeps me coming back after all these years. As you know, you can know the theories of racing dynamics, but it doesn't always apply to dirt racing. Most of those are based on a hard, non-compliant surface, but we race on a more softer, uneven moisture content, and last but not least, the effect od soil shearing on the tires contact patch.Then if that's not enough, you throw in the different types of tire compounds, we have to run.In the end, its the 10% that seperates us from the rest of the racers.By that I mean, its making changes that works for us and our driver.....Good luck to ya!Lions don't worry about the opinions of sheep.
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