Rear frame width. Different front geometry.
Mastersbilt Chassis?
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Questions? Is that a Winters QC? Sweet rack?
I spoke again to the owners Dad tonite and the PO's GF. She sure is excited about the possibility of someone buying the car.
I'm pretty sure I'm going to take a chance on this deal. First it's priced right… and he's open to offers. Second it would be cheaper for me to go through this car then it will be to finish the super stock I now have in my shop. I can run this car 45 miles from home on Saturday nights and there are two other tracks within 90 miles running Friday and Sunday nights. My closest track running supers is 85 miles and the next closest is 120 miles. The pay is better in the LM's too but you know how far that $$$ goes!
I have an iron headed motor that would fit the rules, too. Big HP? No… but it should be dependable.
I'll know by Friday if I make the deal.Last edited by Krooser; 07-08-2015, 05:58 AM.Member of the Luxemburg Speedway Hall of Fame
Class of 2019
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Just don't expect to make it drive like a modern late model. And I would move the rr frame rail as Billet referred to. You can crudely cut it alongside the tire, slide it in 2 inches, and box in the hole you made.
Although much more rare, the narrow car was vastly superior to the wide.Modern Day Spec Wedge Racing
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Well I've never driven a 'modern' LM so I won't be missing anything.
I'm not a fan of the 4 bar deal but I'll have to study how these things really work. I'll ask around to see if I can get some help from some of the guys at the track. I have a friend who built some great cars back in the 80's-90's… maybe he can give me some advice. I'd sooner have leaf springs myself…
Here's my last LM… ex-USAC car built in '61. Genuine Holman-Moody 427 side oiler.Attached FilesMember of the Luxemburg Speedway Hall of Fame
Class of 2019
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As long as you don't expect it to drive like a Cadillac, and win regularly, you'll be fine. But I believe, like others have posted, you need to make sure the rr trailing arms don't hit the frame (you may can space the trailing arm away from the frame) and you can get more angle in the j-bar (it looks like you can just drill more holes and reinforce them with tubing).Lions don't worry about the opinions of sheep.
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Actually, the problem isn't the bars hitting the frame that I recall but there were some older cars when using newer type set ups that the birdcage could get into the RR frame rail. The real problem is the RR tire will rub the outside of the RR frame rail and pop the tire, if you get some j-bar rake into. You will see black marks on the frame rail, the only way to fix it is to move the framerail over at least 2".Originally posted by 25drtrkr View PostAs long as you don't expect it to drive like a Cadillac, and win regularly, you'll be fine. But I believe, like others have posted, you need to make sure the rr trailing arms don't hit the frame (you may can space the trailing arm away from the frame) and you can get more angle in the j-bar (it looks like you can just drill more holes and reinforce them with tubing).
Honestly, I would pass even if it was really cheap. What are you getting there and how much of it isn't going to take a fair amount of money to get it usable? You're guessing the rack and the rear end aren't going to need a ton of work, then what about the brakes? They look to have been sitting quite a while, all of that could need gone thru and need new seals and pistons in the calipers. God now's if the master cylinders are even any good after sitting.
Then the fuel cell: That cell was new in around 95 or so and many had real issues with them, Bill Frye had to turn his side ways in the car to get the car back to where it was before the cell. you can look at old pictures around 95 to 97 and see his and Verdin's cars where both that way.
So how much is really left to use? I honestly wouldn't pay much at all for it, unless you could inspect a bunch of the parts to see if they are even usable without spending cash on them. Too many other cars out there just as cheap, it's a buyer's market.
Just my opinion
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Krooser, where in country is this if its in a cold area id spend some time looking over cage bars and frame rail, water tends to get in rivet holes in cage bars and main frame rails then freezes and splits or swells the bars, frame may not be safe anymore, you may be buying a rear, rack and some odd other parts.
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