You are gonna shut the chassis builders down showing the thickness of that 20 year old metal.
Mastersbilt Chassis?
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It HAS been fun.... better than remodeling a bathroom anyway.
Not done but getting there... still have a couple bars to replace and a little final welding and grinding. I sure found out how important a CLEAN surface is when working on a powder coated chassis... any remaining paint seems to really contaminate a weld.
I'm going to replace the single shear 4 bar mount on the right side with a double shear set-up. Same number of holes and in the same place... got to keep it simple enough for an old man to understand.
Might install some buggy spring mounts just in case I can't figure out this space age technology 4 bar stuff...



Thought I might include a shot of my last pure stock... the rep from Miller came to my shop and ripped off the Miller stickers off my welder then left in a huff...
Member of the Luxemburg Speedway Hall of Fame
Class of 2019
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Looks good Krooser! In case anyone hasn't mentioned it, the RF frame rail will most likely hit the track, under that first down bar. You wont have to totally move it, just cut out what hits and brace it back up!Originally posted by Krooser View PostIt HAS been fun.... better than remodeling a bathroom anyway.
Not done but getting there... still have a couple bars to replace and a little final welding and grinding. I sure found out how important a CLEAN surface is when working on a powder coated chassis... any remaining paint seems to really contaminate a weld.
I'm going to replace the single shear 4 bar mount on the right side with a double shear set-up. Same number of holes and in the same place... got to keep it simple enough for an old man to understand.
Might install some buggy spring mounts just in case I can't figure out this space age technology 4 bar stuff...



Thought I might include a shot of my last pure stock... the rep from Miller came to my shop and ripped off the Miller stickers off my welder then left in a huff...
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I'm going to put an older set-up in it so maybe the car won't lean so much... or I'll bolt my old GF to the left rail... that should balance things out.
Racerx10... I just hope I don't wear out the wrecker!Last edited by Krooser; 02-24-2016, 08:04 PM.Member of the Luxemburg Speedway Hall of Fame
Class of 2019
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LOL....I thought that was reserved for the ex!.......or is that under the tire!Originally posted by Krooser View PostI'm going to put an older set-up in it so maybe the car won't lean so much... or I'll bolt my old GF to the left rail... that should balance things out.
Racerx10... I just hope I don't wear out the wrecker!Turn LEFT, Vote RIGHT!
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You're doing a great job! Looks like a fun build! Keep us updated if you can. Love stuff like this!
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Had three shocks rebuilt/revalved @ Right Foot performance over in Appleton, WI... still need to pick up a few more. I have a line on some more $20.00 specials.
Also had the three springs that came on the car rated to use as spares. The rusty old Carerra came in @ 550 lbs. ... it was on the LF. The rear has a no-name 180# on the LR and a classic Bemco on the RR @ 220#'s.
Maybe I can sell these as collectors items...
And I got a nice Milwaukee grinder for $20.00 at the pawn shop... a guy really should have three ready to go with different abrasives already loaded and ready to work. Plus a couple new 4 bar brackets to replace the one I destroyed with my torch.
Last edited by Krooser; 02-27-2016, 02:05 PM.Member of the Luxemburg Speedway Hall of Fame
Class of 2019
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You might want to think about getting the 4 link brackets with 1/2" holes.Originally posted by Krooser View PostHad three shocks rebuilt/revalved @ Right Foot performance over in Appleton, WI... still need to pick up a few more. I have a line on some more $20.00 specials.
Also had the three springs that came on the car rated to use as spares. The rusty old Carerra came in @ 550 lbs. ... it was on the LF. The rear has a no-name 180# on the LR and a classic Bemco on the RR @ 220#'s.
Maybe I can sell these as collectors items...
And I got a nice Milwaukee grinder for $20.00 at the pawn shop... a guy really should have three ready to go with different abrasives already loaded and ready to work. Plus a couple new 4 bar brackets to replace the one I destroyed with my torch.

I heard that you got Richards and Rumley....trembling! LOLTurn LEFT, Vote RIGHT!
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Trembling? I bet they pick up a Depends sponsor by mid season!
Those brackets have 5/8" holes... same as original. I'm just wondering how far apart I should space them since I don't have a reference point. Interference fit with the rods ends? Or use a spacer?
FYI... I'm keeping all the super secret mods to myself... let Kevin figure out for himself how to keep me off of the front page of DoD...Last edited by Krooser; 02-27-2016, 05:52 PM.Member of the Luxemburg Speedway Hall of Fame
Class of 2019
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I bought one of those sight unseen years ago.It was listed as a combo car,I'm thinking swingarm/4 bar not leaf/4bar.We used the brackets from southwest speed that has the upper and lower mounts in them.16" lower bar 18" upper.We mounted everything with a tape measure and "yeah that looks good"lol.The car was very good on bull rings and was always faster if you forgot about trying to make it hikeup and just made it drive good.
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Spacing depends on lateral movement of rearend. Which depends on angle/length of j bar/panhard bar. You don't want rods/ends hitting the mount and causing binds. If you use 5/8 heims to go with the holes in those plates, the spacers are hard to hold altogether when moving bars. I use 3/4 rods/heims on my 3 link with 5/8 spacers stepped to fit ends.
Nice job.
A few years back I updated brackets on my 95 shaw late model. my favorite car. Hence my user name.
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