Mastersbilt Chassis?

[zeroracing]

I broke one with a limited HP motor once, hard tire, slick track. Still drstroyed a bunch of parts. Make sure you way overdue it, or buy another one (I would not risk it).

[BigNilla]

I like this build keep the updates coming

[Krooser]

Thanks BN...

I pulled the RF hub off the spindle tonite... think the bearings were a little light on grease? Maybe they were just put in to allow the car to roll around the shop... don't know. The bearings look perfect but I have to clean up the rotors and rebuild the calipers.

[BigNilla]

I see progress

[Krooser]

SCD... that may make sense. When I did a brake job on my pick-up a few years ago my buddy was 'helping' me. I bought new rotors, installed the new bearing races then told my friend to grease the bearings and put the rotors on the truck.

Four months later I broke a RF spring and I pulled one rotor off before removing the spindle only to find ZERO grease on the bearings... it was amazing that there was not any bearing wear that I could see. Tow years later still no bearing problems so maybe just a light greasing is the answer.

[dfhotlm33c]

Quote The Jet09:

While I never really answered your question directly, I suppose the correct answer is "it depends." I am only familiar with MasterSbilt stuff and they are the same left to right (at least on a Smackdown...15.5" bottoms and 17.5" tops). But the mounts have trail built in (at least mine does/did, about 3/4" back on the right side). From there you can always lengthen the right (free up handling) or shorten it (tighten handling), and just the opposite on the left side (shorten to free up and lengthen to tighten). I believe Rocket has a rear suspension that uses 3 or 4 different length links and the LR is actually back 1/4" as compared to the RR at ride height (but don't quote me on that as I don't have any experience with one). I'm enjoying the updates on your progress so far!!!


Thank you thank you thank you!! I have an 02 wide/combo that hasn't been raced since 05, and has been garage kept the whole time. It's like a new car. I've put brand new stuff everywhere. I was just finishing setup the other day, and measured the rod lengths to be the same on both sides, as recommended by the setup book. When I measured from the rear end tube to the lower four bar mounting hole on both sides when at ride height, the LR was exactly 3/" shorter. Now I know why! I adjusted the LR bars so the distances matched, but now I think I will put them back, now that I know! Thanks!

[Krooser]

Gotta like another old MB getting back outthere

[Krooser]

Since this old post about my MB hasn't been updated recently I guess I'll just give you guys and update...

Not much to report. The chassis is still in the shop waiting for a bit more welding to de done. Got all new heims for the suspension and I bought a few shocks (still looking for a couple more). Just sold an older triple disc clutch set-up I got with my race motor... now I have most of the cash I need for the Bert bellhousing, flywheel and coupler I found. I also have a line on a Gen 1 Bert for a good price so any extra $$$ is being set aside for that.

Last month I finally picked up the motor I bought last fall. It was a fresh 383 that spun a rod bearing the first night out. After that the cam broke and dropped a chunk into the rotating assembly causing a little more havoc. The crank is repairable. I'm having the rods ground to fit some 6.2 Honda journal rods I have in stock. Going to see if I can lighten the crank a bit to match the lighter bob weight of the new rods and pistons. Got a good shop in Minnesota doing the crank work.

The motor is all iron... my local track gives me a 10" engine set-back with an IMCA spec motor. This thing started life with a solid roller and had a flat tappet solid cam in it when it broke. Looks like I'll have to check the valve springs rates to see if they will work with a new flat tappet cam.

Bought a nice set of Schoenfeld headers for $25.00 and between those and the ones that came with the race engine project I should be able to make them fit the old car.

I also found some pix of the old girl when it was new and during one of it's final seasons before it was put in storage.. both pix from Shawano Speedway.


MJ McBRide ... 1996 when new... built as a leaf car. Won so much there they started calling MJ "Black Bart" and the crew wore black cowboy hats to fit that image.





Gene Maas owned... now a four bar car. Not sure of the date but this was likely early 2000's before it was parked.

[MBR Performance]

I miss seeing the cars when they looked like the top one. I don't mind the way they look now but I don't like the aero dependency they have.

[Krooser]

I have the original style '83 Camaro roof that I will be using again... although in '83 I couldn't stand to see another Camaro!

[mopar92]

Why would anybody even entertain racing a car that rain has taken its toll on the cage etc. man that's old.

[Krooser]

It sat outside just a few months last year with the for sale sign on it.... otherwise it was under cover with the roof and decking on it. Had about 15 years of bird (not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word) on the roof...

Beside I race cheap or I don't race. Not being behind the wheel for another season isn't an option. While thousands of guys all over the country will be sitting in the grandstands making up excuses why they can't afford to race I'll be slinging mud and having a ball.

I would have had it trackside with it this year but I really needed to put a better engine together. That's what I'm working on right now. BTW... the engine is older than the car!

It's never been about how much $$$ you have... at least not for me.

[Matt49]

Am I the only one that thinks this is a seriously dangerous situation?

[MBR Performance]

If it has been garage kept it shouldn't matter. I've seen old cars cut apart and the tubing looks like new inside.

[CCHIEF]

Am I the only one that thinks this is a seriously dangerous situation?

I agree 100%.