Left Rear Spring Falling Out

[MBush]

wow

As I sit back and read this stuff everyday reading questions and answers from people I wonder how ignorant people can be. The guy from the speedway shared a answer most people wouldn't bother telling you then you don't take his advice what a guy you will be lucky to receive help again from here again. Might be in your best intrest call the number he listed to let you explain process in phonics I know I wouldn't have shared that info for free on here
Bush

[bushracing67]

Hey guys don't mean to interupt but, if he goes with softer spring same height, it will extend further and possibly stay in bucket!
But if softer it will also affect weight transfer from rear to front, it will make it free on throttle.

not even close, the longer left rear spring, although softer in rate, adds an unimaginable amount of left rear mechanical drive on the throttle, the more horsepower the more left rear drive you have, when using this set up it basically takes all the normal ways of thinking and throws them straight out the window, my first night on a 20" lr i was carrying the lf 18"+ and i couldn't have spun the car out with throttle if i had to, i did end up looping it half way down the straight.... i really had no idea why... until my crew guy told me i spun when the rf tire came off the ground too.... so loose on the throttle should not be an issue with the 20" 100# spring, when the car rolls over it adds mechanical drive via bar angle, and it adds it at a much faster rate than what you loose from a softer spring, it also takes the weight that you are unloading from the lr and dumps it to the right side, change your rr spring to keep the car pointing straight on the throttle, and be ready to add some camber to the rf i am up to about 4.5 degrees

[keithbaker]

So would have increase rr rate? How much? Would you need to increase rf also?

And how much rebound on lr shock?

[stock car driver]

Jeff
check you facebook, I sent you a message on there. That is where the pictures of my car are.

Car looks nice, I would have put the cage back further while it was cut out of the other car but maybe you have rules for the location.

Your wt jacks are pavement type cans, you should be fine with 13 or 16 once you get it built and on scales.

My upper wt jack is 7.5 above the frame in the rear and I run 16s and have ran from 25-275 of bite and its worked for me.

[bushracing67]

i run a 13" 175 on the rr, i do change it based on track conditions, anywhere from 125-225, my car is 400# lighter, but that really does not seem to change what i run for rear spring, last car was 3200 and i was running a 13 175 rr most of the time in that one too

[tow2youry]

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[oldgold]

stupid

Ok, if this is what you really want then here it is: I apologize for being stupid and not "properly" wording my question. Let me tell you about me, if you care. I have been an Electronics Technician in the United States Navy for the last 9 years. What is that you might ask? Well I will dumb it down so you can understand, I am responsible for the maintenance, troubleshooting, and repair of complex digital and analog circuits in multi-million dollar Communication (both line of sight and satellite), RADAR, and various Navigation system. Sounds pretty stupid to me. But as far as me being stupid about this question, ok fine. I can fix my "stupid" question and behavior with the proper knowledge and experience. You however can't fix your ignorance, your just stuck with it.

dont feel bad about that jacko that is so much more advanced in knowledge he verbally assaulted me on some questions before.

[hot_rod]

Finally an Update

Well I put the new spring in that I bought almost 4 or 5 months ago. I ended up getting an Eibach 16" 100lb spring to replace my 13" 250lb spring. I rescaled to the car and set everything back up to the percentages that it was before. The track that I run at is a high bank on the top and little to no banking on the bottom. Its a 3/8ths tight corner that is rougher than a roller coaster and slicker than ice on most everynight. (they really have no idea how to prep a track). For full body cars like mine, we typically run the top in single file through the corners, then try to pass on the straights. My car last night was the best that I have ever had with the new spring. I was able to run as low as possible have the car stick. I was able to pass cars doing a slide job. Last night was the most fun that I think I have ever had in a stock car. Out of twelve cars I was 4th fastest in qualifing, and normally I am a tail dragging car. Not normally real fast. I was extremely impressed and just wanted to give an update since I finally put it in the car.

Thanks for all the help.

[LowTechRacing]

Do you have stock spring pockets, or weight jacks? I would like to try it also.

[TeamGRT12x]

I'm still baffled at why you took 150 pounds of spring rate out of the left rear.

[hot_rod]

I'm still baffled at why you took 150 pounds of spring rate out of the left rear.

Technically I did take the spring rate out, but when the spring is compressed at ride height it has almost the same length as the 13". The 13" was compressed to around 9 or 10", now the 16" is compressed the same or almost the same. The way this helped me is that down the straights it has the compression as before, but in the corners when the car rolls over the spring stays in contact with the rearend providing more force on the left rear. I went from pretty much no weight on the LR to actually have some weight. It helped a lot come out of the corners with forward bite. It went from one wheel pulling to both wheels pulling.

[hot_rod]

Do you have stock spring pockets, or weight jacks? I would like to try it also.

I am running homemade spring buckets with 11" jack bolts. Stock Car Driver said that they were asphalt buckets, I dont know about that. I just made them out of some plate and a 7" ID peice of pipe, with a nut welded to plate on top.

[stock car driver]

Technically I did take the spring rate out, but when the spring is compressed at ride height it has almost the same length as the 13". The 13" was compressed to around 9 or 10", now the 16" is compressed the same or almost the same. The way this helped me is that down the straights it has the compression as before, but in the corners when the car rolls over the spring stays in contact with the rearend providing more force on the left rear. I went from pretty much no weight on the LR to actually have some weight. It helped a lot come out of the corners with forward bite. It went from one wheel pulling to both wheels pulling.

When the car rolls over and the spring extends you dont have any more force pushing down than you did before.

The spring is way to soft to have any rate as its extended..

for example

250 16 @12.75 = 860#
225 16 @12.75= 765#ish
150 16 @12.75=500# ish

If it worked to help you than its for some other reason than the springs rate.

[hot_rod]

Well that was the theory behind why I put it in. I don't think that there is a lot of pressure being applied to the LR, but it has more than before. I can't say what exactly was the overall contributing factor to the car running as good as it did,but the only thing that changed was the spring. With the new setup, I might not be able to run high on the track anymore. Our track is so rough that high is generally the better line if you miss the giant holes and ruts. Since a lot of people don't run down low it seems to hold together better. I am extremely happy with the setup, the only thing that I regret is waiting until there was only 3 races left in the season when I put it in.

This is pretty close as to what I actually have:
Old: 13" 250 compressed to 9.5" = 875lbs
13" 250 no compression = 0lbs
New: 16" 100 compressed to 7.5" = 850lbs
16" 100 compressed to 3" = 300lbs.

To me the 300lbs in the LR is better than the 0lbs. I'm approximating the compression for the 16" in the corners but that is close to what the car is rolling over. So there is my logic and thought process. It might be completely wrong but it worked out for me.

[TeamGRT12x]

You are over engineering this whole thing. You're building kinetic energy with a compressed spring. It only goes so far. If you need more left rear drive, you need to add left rear bite. The spring table with that soft spring is going to be real messed up.