Some people run front springs both ways. Typically people will run the lf heavy since they don't know how to flip wheel weights when on scales. The heavier the rf spring the more drive the car will have off the corner. But in the same sense when done on scales you want lf wheel weights to be heavier then rf. That allows you to run less bite with more cross which will allow you to get back to the gas sooner into the corner.
Extremely high rear bite numbers?
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Tie the rr down a little with 3/5 and bring In rr. You'll bring a win home or be up front next race.
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Oem suspension cars don't gain drive from stiffer rf.Originally posted by Bdcase19 View PostSome people run front springs both ways. Typically people will run the lf heavy since they don't know how to flip wheel weights when on scales. The heavier the rf spring the more drive the car will have off the corner. But in the same sense when done on scales you want lf wheel weights to be heavier then rf. That allows you to run less bite with more cross which will allow you to get back to the gas sooner into the corner.
Less bite with more cross? Less bite is less cross. When setting up dirt cars cross is not used just bite
Lf spring heavier tightens entry off gas.
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I hate to break it to ya "stock car driver" but yes, yes they do gain drive with stiffer rf but also like stiffening the lr tightens car on entry. We have ran our car both ways lf heavy and rf heavy car is a lot more driveable but like I said you have to know how to scale the car and keep bite down while scaled lf heavy. And no you can keep cross in the car and take bite out. But there is no sense in argueing with you because you seem like someone who knows it all.
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Hate to break it to you CASE but stock car driver has won a lot of races in our area. He did pretty (not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word) well. These street stocks have some crazy set ups in them though.
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LR Bite is Cross they are the same thing. Period. Adding more cross is more RF and and it decreases LF and RR and bite is LR over RR same exact thing different term one is used on asphalt one is used on dirt. I have a car with 390 bite, a soft LR soft fronts. medium rear and higher left and its cleaning house. Stock rear trailing arm locations and parts, good shocks are key and I'm not running traditional Super Street numbers more something you would see on a late model valving wise. I went with a new approach. the metric has bad geometry camber gain issues. So I went to valving that pins the car, and use my bite to get what i want off the corners and not "transfer" its working for me but it takes a whole package, its far from a turn and stomp car like most high bite setups. You need to decide to i want to be conventional or do i want to be new school both can win races and honestly depends on your rules. When you decide find someone who does it well get advice and commit to the setup and see why it works. The lower bite setups need front to rear transfer so you need to shock accordingly.
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Stock Car Driver basically through the different threads on this forum has laid out a baseline you can almost plug and play and get pretty dang close anywhere you go. You might want to start there and see what works and why it works most of the posts on here people don't understand how the springs are working on accel and deccel as far as dynamic weight transfer goes and what its doing to wheel load once you understand that these cars are easy, most are stock configurations so it keeps you in an adjustment box
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Well races won or not me and my driver have won a lot of races in our area. Multiple track championships, multiple super national qualifiers, multiple big money shows. The compition don't get much tougher then in Iowa.Cross is a percentage just like left side and rear. Which yes you can change cross with the change of springs. But also just like left and rear is a dynamic weight and really only changes dramatically with the movement of lead. Like I've said knowing how to scale the car for what you want it to do is key.Do you really want to use a set-up that is just as fast as everyone else, or do you want to be faster?
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If you think bite and cross are different then you need to do some research. You cannot change scale numbers with springs. Ride heights are what changes bite aka cross. you can have a 100 to a 1000# spring and if you set the car back to the exact ride heights you had you bite aka cross will be exactly the same.
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Lmao. So you mean to tell me if I set my ride height on my rr and take my 225 out and put my 250 in and take turns out to get my ride height back the numbers won't change a bit? Lol they will be completely different!! If you change one spring and the other three don't move I would look into getting a new car. Usually as you up or lower bite cross will go up and down with it but you can change it more with lead placement. How can you tell me bite and cross are the same when they have to do with different wheel weights.
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I'm telling you this because it's true. Post this theory in the LM section we enjoy good laughs. Cross is LR and RF added together and a percentage of the whole LR bite it your RR from your LR well when you raise cross you raise your LR weight and ALSO YOUR RF and it takes away from your LF and RR that's why your BITE goes up. It's the same thing Asphalt Racers use cross and not LR bite as a term because an asphalt car traditionally is a lot more front end dominant and we care more about what the RF is doing. That's the only reason we don't use the term LR bite. I setup asphalt dirt late models asphalt all the way from street stock to touring cars for a living get the scales out and do some work you will see one turn in a single spring changes all the other corners which should show you which diagonals lose and which gain and you'll see cross and bite are the same. Raising LF lowers cross and lowers bite. Dropping LF raises bite and cross raise LR ride height raises bite and raises cross. Putting turns in the RR raising its height lowers cross and lowers bite, taking turns out of the RR and lowering RR raises cross and raises bite it's all the same thing you tell me how you adjust them in opposite directions independently of each other....you can't lol
Originally posted by Bdcase19 View PostLmao. So you mean to tell me if I set my ride height on my rr and take my 225 out and put my 250 in and take turns out to get my ride height back the numbers won't change a bit? Lol they will be completely different!! If you change one spring and the other three don't move I would look into getting a new car. Usually as you up or lower bite cross will go up and down with it but you can change it more with lead placement. How can you tell me bite and cross are the same when they have to do with different wheel weights.
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Remember this a spring is a weight ABSORBER. You do not "plant" a tire more by going softer you take more wheel load off once you realize that things will click. Go get an egg and step on it I bet it crushes. Go get another egg and a story tall of foam and step on it "exaggerated) and bet it won't crush the foam is your spring and you didn't crush the egg because the softer spring absorbed the weight. Learn wheel loading after you learn how to scale
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Someone who understands. AndMe being young has nothing to do with it. I've been around it since I was real young and I know what IKnow from experience, from countless hours on the scales. Most people stick with what hasWorked for them, which is alright but yourNot gonna get faster if your setup is always the same.You can adjust all four corners and leave the rifled height the same while raising or lowering bite and front split. You can also raise the rear (both sides) not equally a take split out or put split in without moving bite. Same goes for the front or for the left side or for the right side. Remember NUMBERS don't lie. And like I said with the exception on cross the percentages are static weight numbers. They do not change unless you move or add/ subtract weight.Last edited by Bdcase19; 07-28-2016, 12:42 PM.
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