hyd. vs soild heads?

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  • 14flower
    Senior Member
    • Mar 2010
    • 262

    #16
    ya i can go solid dont know if i could do roller unless i could find a cheap good used one. my buddy has the same bottom end and but he has a big valve heart shape d port head with a .527 lift cam from schinder that run realy well. and if the would nt coil bild my springs couldnt i just get one of those and do the solid swap on top that? or would hyd. roller be better.
    jared flower

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    • 14flower
      Senior Member
      • Mar 2010
      • 262

      #17
      called racerwalsh tech support thry said cam is good from 3500-7200 rpm and to 7500 with anti pump ups? would that be true? and what what about esslinger .468 lift hyd./solid cam my meachinest said that would be his pick for me if i dont change anything cause he said my head as it sits can only handle about .535 .540 lift max
      jared flower

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      • engineczar
        Member
        • Apr 2008
        • 34

        #18
        Racer Walsh is full of it if they think a 230 duration cam will pull to 7500.

        If you stay with a hydraulic cam and depending on how your head flows the 304H from Schnieder would be a decent choice. The Esslinger isn't too far off but I think the 260 duration it has might be too much for a 1/4 track unless you have a good amount of compression say at least 12:1.

        Converting the head over to a solid would uncover a bit more power but it does require a bit of machine work.

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        • 14flower
          Senior Member
          • Mar 2010
          • 262

          #19
          only have 10:1 witch idk y with what i have but the 1/4 i run is wide high banked and fast sprint car times are almost hitting the high 9s. and what about the solid kits u dont have to mechine? the lift boss down?
          jared flower

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          • Old Rob
            Senior Member
            • May 2007
            • 1027

            #20
            Originally posted by 14flower View Post
            called racerwalsh tech support thry said cam is good from 3500-7200 rpm and to 7500 with anti pump ups? would that be true? and what what about esslinger .468 lift hyd./solid cam my meachinest said that would be his pick for me if i dont change anything cause he said my head as it sits can only handle about .535 .540 lift max
            If you go to the www.powerbyace.com site they have just a few solid cams that use stock length valves. One is 260 duration with .480 lift at lash. It can be taken out to .500 lift if your cam guy knows his stuff. Also look at thier cam setup tools, they help to get them accurate. The 260 cam with thier header usually needs a bigger muffler to pass noise limits. Email thier tech for more info.
            Regardess of cam choice set your cam up at max lift at lash. Thats what you're getting when running. Example: I vary lash up to approx .0015 on cylinders so as to get the same .479 lift (.480 rule) at all cylynders.

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            • 14flower
              Senior Member
              • Mar 2010
              • 262

              #21
              the valves arent stock length the only stock size. thats y i can go up to .540 lift
              jared flower

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              • 14flower
                Senior Member
                • Mar 2010
                • 262

                #22
                and i built my engine with my curent cam on a pc build and like u said max power was 6000 and droped 5 hp at 6500 and 20 hp at 7000 and 45 from max at 7500 and playing with schinders cams the best is the 304h but with a 112 lobe center but the only down side is they dont say what intake and ex lobe centers are. so i played with ti and the motor like 116 and 102 lobe centers. so why is it everyone grinds there cams at 106 if 112 makes more power ?
                jared flower

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                • crcltrakr
                  Senior Member
                  • May 2007
                  • 293

                  #23
                  Why do people grind.....

                  Because people don't race PC's and a Real life dyno makes no assumptions on the data!
                  JerryM

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                  • Racedad
                    Senior Member
                    • May 2007
                    • 340

                    #24
                    Lobe Centers

                    The tighter102-108 lobe centers accelerate harder in the mid-range,110 plus gives a smoother idle and more high rpm power.
                    Actual valve timing events are the most important measurements but lobe centers are useful way to compare cams.

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                    • 14flower
                      Senior Member
                      • Mar 2010
                      • 262

                      #25
                      thanks racedad that makes alot more sence. thanks for explining it instead of hating that i brought what found out. on a pc.
                      jared flower

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                      • engineczar
                        Member
                        • Apr 2008
                        • 34

                        #26
                        I don't think there's any hating going on. Just folks trying to help. Another characteristic of lobe centers is that tighter lobe centers tend to be peaky horsepower wise. Wider lobe centers tend to produce a flatter but wider torque curve. On tracks with longer straightaways I tend to use 110 and up centerlines.

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                        • 14flower
                          Senior Member
                          • Mar 2010
                          • 262

                          #27
                          ok that makes sence. well ran the car this weekend after reseting the cam heads up and 32' adv and ran realy good and went from my 723/4 lr role out to a 74 lr role out and rr from a 733/4 to a 741/2 to help the gearing/ rpm problem and it seem to help installing a tech for the next race. so why where talking about cams what about heads i know most people say its all personal preference but is there one thats better for say a 1/4 mile track?
                          jared flower

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                          • crcltrakr
                            Senior Member
                            • May 2007
                            • 293

                            #28
                            Ignition timing

                            You might try 4-6 degrees more timing, most built 2300's like 38-40 total.....
                            JerryM

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                            • car62
                              Senior Member
                              • May 2007
                              • 1579

                              #29
                              i agree with Jerry(crcltrakr)

                              we run 36-38 with stock rod and 38-41 with long rod...makes a HUGE power difference
                              No matter how hard you try...you cant fix stupid!!!

                              If you build it right...it will turn left!!!

                              www.raceidaho.com

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                              • Dan32
                                Senior Member
                                • Dec 2010
                                • 302

                                #30
                                Originally posted by 14flower View Post
                                what rpms should i try to have then at then end of the striaght away? and that somehing else i was wondering what rpm max should i turn with that set and a 5.2 bottom end?
                                you can turn stock rods 8200 if you know the tricks and use good rod bolts! i would run 103 lobe seperation will get you of the corner better but with out flowing your head your running in the dark you must know what your capable of before you start tossing money at it! and valve springs plays a huge part in your rpms so start at the bottom and go up!!

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