Has your car always been like this or is this a different car ?? Since your rained out look for anything binding.
No heat in RF tire?
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I f it is something new I agree with dirtrunner, something is off. When you are going thru the corner is the LF on the ground and where/when is it off the ground if at all? You need to address the corner just as you drive thru it, entry, middle then exit as correcting one will alot of times fix other areas.
If you are picking up the RF then the only thing loading the RR is the force of weight transfer and the suspension thru the traction device. If you put the car into a state that the lf is unloaded on the scales the RR is also unloaded. (If you put it on a jack and jack it up that is a rigid LF not an unloaded one. We did alot of strapping, and twisitn of a car once to see why we had a push and when we go the car in the on track attitude we found that over 80% of the cars weight was on the LR tire. It was smashed WAY down BUT that is also how it was on the videos of the car. We found some things binding and made a few changes and got the car to 60% weight on the LF and it ran MUCH better.
A stiffer spring will catch more weight decelerating or on the brakes causing the car to naturally want to turn towards that spring. A lot of times if the car was pushing going in BUT had been right before we would add a spring rubber to the LF or go to a stiffer spring. On late models it is not odd to see a 650 LF and a 250 RF now if you figure in the different leverage the mod front has on springs that can be as high as 1100-1200LF and a 450-600RF depending on the suspension.Last edited by Egoracing; 05-25-2012, 10:16 AM.
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The LF does not come off the ground. The car has always been very hit or miss. This is the third year I have ran it and it has always seemed to be tight in.
I tried a straight panhard bar last season a few nights and had really good bite coming off but was still too tight getting in and in the center.
We dont have alot of opportunity to practice so I am looking for ideas I can change at the track.
I started the season out with all GRT specs as far as what is on their website. The numbers you see on the first page are where the car seems to be the best.
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Did you plumb the brakes or some else, had that happen this year, was biasing the brakes the wrong way. Guess you have tried lowering the jbar on frame? Less fuel or rear percent? Sticking the rr out some? A heavier spring in rf, trailing rr more, more stagger, lighter rr spring. Does your rr b/c have more the one hole on the bottom, you could lower it there to loosen if you've tried raisen it up on frame. You've tried most of these, just passing out ideas. If your running a limiter on lr for the drop, you could shorten it. You could put a nail or screw in rf brake line to see if that helps.Best of luck.
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I have tried the following:
-lowered j-bar on frame
-reduced rear percentage from 57.5-58 to 56-56.5
-put a 650 spring in RF
I am trailing 1/4 now how much could I go before it hurts forward bite? I am currently in the bottom hole on the RR birdcage but I can go up more on the chassis.
I run a Afco 90/10 on the top of the rearend and I have seen results where some ppl take it off to loosen it in?
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I would take the 9010 off and see how you like it, alot of guys aren't running them including us. You can run a dummy shock if you want some kind of protection for breakage or cable of some sort. Taking it off, appears to have gave us more bite and loosened it up on entry but we use it on a rough track. More angle in rrb bar will help on entry but I would try the 9010 first to get the feel of it. Best of luck.
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90/10 will tighten a car up. I would not go more than a 1/4 inch trail on the RR and you can get a spring rubber or 2 and put them into the LF, if you do not like it then pull them out, we have done it under cautions you just need to make sure that it does not end up high enough in the frame that you can not get to it.
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Lowering the j-bar will give you more body roll but less weight transfer in the rear, making the rear tighter and the front looser.Originally posted by missile07 View PostI have tried the following:
-lowered j-bar on frame
-reduced rear percentage from 57.5-58 to 56-56.5
-put a 650 spring in RF
I am trailing 1/4 now how much could I go before it hurts forward bite? I am currently in the bottom hole on the RR birdcage but I can go up more on the chassis.
I run a Afco 90/10 on the top of the rearend and I have seen results where some ppl take it off to loosen it in?
Is your RRL bar level or up hill a little in the bottom hole ?? Go up another hole to try to free it up on entry more.
Has the car always had that 16 inch spring and always tight ?Last edited by Dirtrunner35; 05-25-2012, 04:06 PM.
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I havent tried a lower or higher LF spring yet. Pullbar is barely to LR on the rearend end.
I honestly wonder if my front end roll center is located too much to the right. My upper a-arm angles are about the same when at ride height & from what I can gather if it is too far right then there is not enough leverage to move the weight to the RF.
I am thinking about purchasing the software from Autoware to find out more about my front end. I didnt buy the car new, so I dont know if things were moved.
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no to the 16 inch spring....i have 13 inch springs I can run in its place in most rates but couldnt tell much difference.
Yes to always being tight. Last year we had some sprint car shows at our local track and the car was really good come feature time because of the tightness, but it finally rubbered down.
I would rather the car be good coming off the bottom, so a little tight on the throttle is ok. Just having to use to much rear brake getting in
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Stagger ?? Raise the RRL bar up a hole. A friend I know on here has a leaf mod and moved his RR back a 1/2 inch and car was a ton better. And moved it back a little more . His car was always tight.
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My tire temps after last night
LF- 83 RF- 100-95-100
LR- 120 RR- 136-120
Track was really slick, so I was running the top with my RR in the cushion.
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I think my post was high jacked....
I was able to race this weekend and here is what I done:
-decreased j-bar rake from 6 1/2 to 6
-moved RR lower bar up one hole & increased bar lengths (LRU 16 LRL 13 1/2 RRU 16 3/8 RRL 13 3/4
The car was better getting in but still tight & my drive off the corners was horrible. Honestly I think I would rather have excellent forward and be a little tight. Any ideas?
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Did you check your tire temps ? And why did you lengthen your lower bars 1 1/2 ? Does anyone video your racing ?
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