I have a dw7 2 link being run as a sport mod. the car handles great on a dry slick which is what the track always is when the feature comes around. The car is super tight though when its tacky. I'm new to this so I'm looking at ways to loosen the car up when the track is tacky. The car doesn't want to set into the corner and pushes all the way through the corner.
handling help?
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You can lower the left trailing arm, raise the right side trailing arm to give more roll steer, take some bite out, raise the panhard bar, all will free the car up in different ways.
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Would you guys explain what to expect from each adjustment. And how much it would affect the car. also how much should a guy move the panhard at a time? An inch, half inch, 1/8 of an inch?Sorry if I sound dumb but I'm trying to learn so not only can I be a competitive racer but also so I don't tear up other guys cars by doing the wrong thing.
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Move the panhard bar in 1/2" increments until you find what you like. Raising the panhard bar will make the car roll less in the rear and which may tighten entry slightly but will loosen the car mid turn. Taking bite out for me has almost no change on entry but will free the car up on throttle and tends to slow down the LR hike. Lowering teh LR trailing arm will reduce the hike and thus take drive away from the LR which will make the car looser. I come to the track with my car setup loose for the normal tacky track in the heat and then I do the oposite of the changes above to tighten the car when the track slicks off.
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Spacing the LF and RR out will lower your dynamic cross weight (in the turns, it makes your springs behave like they are softer) which should free up the car. The advantage is that it's easy and you aren't messing with the base setup. There are some folks on here that tune their car only with wheel offsets.Originally posted by redracersmod View PostWould you guys explain what to expect from each adjustment. And how much it would affect the car. also how much should a guy move the panhard at a time? An inch, half inch, 1/8 of an inch?Sorry if I sound dumb but I'm trying to learn so not only can I be a competitive racer but also so I don't tear up other guys cars by doing the wrong thing.Last edited by speedbuggy; 07-25-2013, 10:02 PM.
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Yup, that's what i'm thinking . Problem will get worse with that adjustment. Unless we are talking a reverse wedge setup to start with ? 2 link normally is wedged up static to have any drive at all dynamic.Originally posted by Dirtrunner35 View Postwouldn't spacing the RR out put more dynamic cross in the carLast edited by 1Blacksheep; 07-25-2013, 07:36 PM.The Blacksheep cometh ! With old bent sh!t that just keeps getting faster !
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Yes, you are right... I gotta start paying more attention. My fingers sometimes don't type what my head is thinking. It would put MORE dynamic cross which should loosen turn entry. Thanks for keeping me straight. I just wanted the OP to know that wheel offsets are an easy option that doesn't mess with the base setup.Originally posted by Dirtrunner35 View Postwouldn't spacing the RR out put more dynamic cross in the car
Also, I'm assuming if he can get the car loosened up on entry, he may be able to get off the corner better kinda automatically.Last edited by speedbuggy; 07-25-2013, 10:07 PM.
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Thank you guys for the help. I'm going to have to give the sujestions a try because my car doesn't work well when the tracks heavy it starts from corner entry all the way around.
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follow program
if you want win you follow the program like all other ump racers who fast if not you beat by the program. do research and see ump national champ used program if its good for him are you better?
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OK I know if I adjust the pan hard bar I need to keep the rear end centered. But if I adjust the left trailing arm do I just move it and not adjust the adjustment sleeve or do I need to adjust the sleeve so it stays the same distance
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So your saying I need to adjust it so the rear end doesn't move in the chassis just like you do with the pan hard bar
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