I switched from a 600hp 23* to a 710hp 18* motor and chased setup the rest of the year. We finally found alittle bite with some crazy bar angles but was wondering if there was a few tips for a less radical setup for high hp engines on 4bar with short pull bar setup.
23* to 18* setup differences
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If two engines weigh about the same and have similar CG heights, you should make almost no change to the car. Is the 18 degree built by a reputable engine builder? If not, it may have a bad torque curve. Or the driver may need to learn to finesse the pedal a little better instead of just punching it.Originally posted by swaringim25 View PostI switched from a 600hp 23* to a 710hp 18* motor and chased setup the rest of the year. We finally found alittle bite with some crazy bar angles but was wondering if there was a few tips for a less radical setup for high hp engines on 4bar with short pull bar setup.Modern Day Spec Wedge Racing
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I drive the car and built both the engines. The 23 is a steel headed motor in a shp block and the 18 is an aluminum headed motor in a little m block so cg weight could come into play. As for finesse, i am not going to deny that i could use more of that because im only a third year driver. Torque curves are very good as both engines were in the car on the chassis dyno.
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what kind of car?
clamp/ spring behind?
biscuit pullbar/ spring?
gearing could play a major roll in handling differences as well.I think there should be lifeguards in the genepool.
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09 shaw spring behind progressive spring 24in pull bar. We tried going from our normal 6.48 to a 6.25 and helped a little but the car just seems like its on top of the track, even when the track is heavy.
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I would say raise the motor a 1/2in-1in, the Lil M block is about 30pds more than the SHP and its low in the car. Not sure how much the steel heads weigh vs the 18 degree heads. But even with them being 18 degree i doubt they weigh as much as a 23degree steel head(probably 10-15lbs lighter per side). Pointing to needing to raise the motor compared to the 23 degree motor yet again. Did the %'s change when you changed motors? I figured if you needed to change gears it would of been the other direction
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% did not change and we geared it that way hoping to not be in the heart of the torque coming out of the turn. We are also considering retarding the cam.
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I agree with this 100%.Originally posted by powerslide View PostI would say raise the motor a 1/2in-1in, the Lil M block is about 30pds more than the SHP and its low in the car. Not sure how much the steel heads weigh vs the 18 degree heads. But even with them being 18 degree i doubt they weigh as much as a 23degree steel head(probably 10-15lbs lighter per side). Pointing to needing to raise the motor compared to the 23 degree motor yet again. Did the %'s change when you changed motors? I figured if you needed to change gears it would of been the other directionModern Day Spec Wedge Racing
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If the % was the same, I cant see where raising the motor 1/2 in is going to be the miracle fix to all your problems. There is a big difference in a 23 deg 600 hp motor and a 18 deg 700+ motor, like night and day. Sounds like a right foot problem for sure! Hows that tire wear? Burning them up? Restricting it and giving it a go isnt a bad idea.
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As I think everyone in Imca land is learning by the regular ass kicking the open motors are getting by the little crate that could, in a modified you really don't need 600 hp. Unless you're on open tires and tacky gumbo clay. Not to be rude or arrogant, but were you finding yourself flat footing the car all the way around the track and still being beat? If so that's the only reason I can see to add 100 more hp to a perfect handling car. You're probably having handling issues because you have more hp and tq than you're tires can possibly hold.
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as i said before i could use a little more finesse but racing at i55 and tri city if you dont have good hp you might as well go fishing. After racing just 7 times my rookie year in 2011 then winning a track championship in 2012 im not just some joker that cant drive. i have a true setup issue that needs to be identified.
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Well since your not just some joker, it must be the car. You dont really explain what the car is doing, other than it feels like its on top of the track. Soooo, How much travel are you getting on the pull bar? Have you tried a stiffer spring?Originally posted by swaringim25 View Postas i said before i could use a little more finesse but racing at i55 and tri city if you dont have good hp you might as well go fishing. After racing just 7 times my rookie year in 2011 then winning a track championship in 2012 im not just some joker that cant drive. i have a true setup issue that needs to be identified.
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Have you weighed both motors? I'm surprised your rear percentage didn't change at all. Have you tried throwing more rear to it? When you say it feels like the car is on top of the track, are you talking about all the way through the corner or just on exit?
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