23* to 18* setup differences

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  • swaringim25
    Junior Member
    • Jan 2014
    • 13

    #1

    23* to 18* setup differences

    I switched from a 600hp 23* to a 710hp 18* motor and chased setup the rest of the year. We finally found alittle bite with some crazy bar angles but was wondering if there was a few tips for a less radical setup for high hp engines on 4bar with short pull bar setup.
  • MasterSbilt_Racer
    Senior Member
    • May 2007
    • 14304

    #2
    Originally posted by swaringim25 View Post
    I switched from a 600hp 23* to a 710hp 18* motor and chased setup the rest of the year. We finally found alittle bite with some crazy bar angles but was wondering if there was a few tips for a less radical setup for high hp engines on 4bar with short pull bar setup.
    If two engines weigh about the same and have similar CG heights, you should make almost no change to the car. Is the 18 degree built by a reputable engine builder? If not, it may have a bad torque curve. Or the driver may need to learn to finesse the pedal a little better instead of just punching it.
    Modern Day Spec Wedge Racing

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    • swaringim25
      Junior Member
      • Jan 2014
      • 13

      #3
      I drive the car and built both the engines. The 23 is a steel headed motor in a shp block and the 18 is an aluminum headed motor in a little m block so cg weight could come into play. As for finesse, i am not going to deny that i could use more of that because im only a third year driver. Torque curves are very good as both engines were in the car on the chassis dyno.

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      • JustAddDirt
        Senior Member
        • May 2007
        • 1893

        #4
        what kind of car?
        clamp/ spring behind?
        biscuit pullbar/ spring?

        gearing could play a major roll in handling differences as well.
        I think there should be lifeguards in the genepool.

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        • swaringim25
          Junior Member
          • Jan 2014
          • 13

          #5
          09 shaw spring behind progressive spring 24in pull bar. We tried going from our normal 6.48 to a 6.25 and helped a little but the car just seems like its on top of the track, even when the track is heavy.

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          • powerslide
            Senior Member
            • May 2007
            • 2696

            #6
            I would say raise the motor a 1/2in-1in, the Lil M block is about 30pds more than the SHP and its low in the car. Not sure how much the steel heads weigh vs the 18 degree heads. But even with them being 18 degree i doubt they weigh as much as a 23degree steel head(probably 10-15lbs lighter per side). Pointing to needing to raise the motor compared to the 23 degree motor yet again. Did the %'s change when you changed motors? I figured if you needed to change gears it would of been the other direction

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            • swaringim25
              Junior Member
              • Jan 2014
              • 13

              #7
              % did not change and we geared it that way hoping to not be in the heart of the torque coming out of the turn. We are also considering retarding the cam.

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              • JustAddDirt
                Senior Member
                • May 2007
                • 1893

                #8
                well its a typical shaw....lol... good luck
                I think there should be lifeguards in the genepool.

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                • MasterSbilt_Racer
                  Senior Member
                  • May 2007
                  • 14304

                  #9
                  Originally posted by powerslide View Post
                  I would say raise the motor a 1/2in-1in, the Lil M block is about 30pds more than the SHP and its low in the car. Not sure how much the steel heads weigh vs the 18 degree heads. But even with them being 18 degree i doubt they weigh as much as a 23degree steel head(probably 10-15lbs lighter per side). Pointing to needing to raise the motor compared to the 23 degree motor yet again. Did the %'s change when you changed motors? I figured if you needed to change gears it would of been the other direction
                  I agree with this 100%.
                  Modern Day Spec Wedge Racing

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                  • HEAVY DUTY
                    Senior Member
                    • Jun 2007
                    • 796

                    #10
                    Restrictor plate

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                    • QQQQ
                      Member
                      • Jan 2014
                      • 92

                      #11
                      If the % was the same, I cant see where raising the motor 1/2 in is going to be the miracle fix to all your problems. There is a big difference in a 23 deg 600 hp motor and a 18 deg 700+ motor, like night and day. Sounds like a right foot problem for sure! Hows that tire wear? Burning them up? Restricting it and giving it a go isnt a bad idea.

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                      • charcoal01
                        Senior Member
                        • Jul 2008
                        • 545

                        #12
                        As I think everyone in Imca land is learning by the regular ass kicking the open motors are getting by the little crate that could, in a modified you really don't need 600 hp. Unless you're on open tires and tacky gumbo clay. Not to be rude or arrogant, but were you finding yourself flat footing the car all the way around the track and still being beat? If so that's the only reason I can see to add 100 more hp to a perfect handling car. You're probably having handling issues because you have more hp and tq than you're tires can possibly hold.

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                        • swaringim25
                          Junior Member
                          • Jan 2014
                          • 13

                          #13
                          as i said before i could use a little more finesse but racing at i55 and tri city if you dont have good hp you might as well go fishing. After racing just 7 times my rookie year in 2011 then winning a track championship in 2012 im not just some joker that cant drive. i have a true setup issue that needs to be identified.

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                          • QQQQ
                            Member
                            • Jan 2014
                            • 92

                            #14
                            Originally posted by swaringim25 View Post
                            as i said before i could use a little more finesse but racing at i55 and tri city if you dont have good hp you might as well go fishing. After racing just 7 times my rookie year in 2011 then winning a track championship in 2012 im not just some joker that cant drive. i have a true setup issue that needs to be identified.
                            Well since your not just some joker, it must be the car. You dont really explain what the car is doing, other than it feels like its on top of the track. Soooo, How much travel are you getting on the pull bar? Have you tried a stiffer spring?

                            Comment

                            • charcoal01
                              Senior Member
                              • Jul 2008
                              • 545

                              #15
                              Have you weighed both motors? I'm surprised your rear percentage didn't change at all. Have you tried throwing more rear to it? When you say it feels like the car is on top of the track, are you talking about all the way through the corner or just on exit?

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