dirt works set up?

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  • 35smod
    Senior Member
    • Jun 2007
    • 286

    #16
    Switch to what the guys said above and the car will be much faster and more driveable but i would go to 2" off wheels around maybe a 3" on re as track slicks off no less than a 200 on rr preferably a 225 separate that spring and shock on the lr and get the shock on the front definitely jbar center of pinion with about 5" of rake should be in the neighborhood of 500 - 600 spring on rf that should get that car to turn and rotate good with good drive off

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    • modracr41
      Senior Member
      • Oct 2007
      • 243

      #17
      Thanks for the info. Just wanted some current info to start from with the IMCA tires and steel heads.

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      • Elam Budmore
        Junior Member
        • Dec 2014
        • 14

        #18
        dirtworks corrected uppers??

        Originally posted by JHobbs26 View Post
        That setup sheet is from the early 2000's. Do like Matt said, 550lf, 600rf, 200lr, 175rr. Do you have the corrected uppers or stock mount location? Do you have the early 64-67 chevelle or later 68-72?
        what do you mean by corrected uppers? I have what I believe to be a 2005 with a 64-67 stub but I think the front upper arms may have been relocated, how can I tell?

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        • powerslide
          Senior Member
          • May 2007
          • 2696

          #19
          The stock mount uppers have a cross bar to bolt the upper to. The new "updated" versions just have a heim bolted to the frame.
          Attached Files

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          • Elam Budmore
            Junior Member
            • Dec 2014
            • 14

            #20
            thanks for the info. Does anyone have a idea as to the aprox length of these corrected arms? and if they should be the same right to left? also can anyone tell me how to identify what year dirtworks we have here from the number welded on the frame rail?

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            • JHobbs26
              Senior Member
              • Aug 2007
              • 146

              #21
              Dirtworks gave you 2 front end options. the standard option was using a 1 piece upper bolted to the stock tower in the stock location. Or you could order the car with the "corrected" frontend which used the swedge tube/heim style. I believe for the 2005 your LF should use a 6" & 7" swedge tube and the RF uses 5" & 6". Its been 4 years since I've worked on a dirtworks so my memory might be a little off, your best bet would be calling Gary Clark or Jerry Hoffman. Dirtworks did not weld a serial number to the frame, they used a plate riveted to the dash bar.

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              • Mosidebite
                Senior Member
                • May 2007
                • 717

                #22
                Call Hoffman. 417 673 7426

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                • modracr41
                  Senior Member
                  • Oct 2007
                  • 243

                  #23
                  Originally posted by Elam Budmore View Post
                  thanks for the info. Does anyone have a idea as to the aprox length of these corrected arms? and if they should be the same right to left? also can anyone tell me how to identify what year dirtworks we have here from the number welded on the frame rail?
                  I don't think Dirtworks welded a number on the frame rail. There should be an ID tag in the interior on the left side of the crossbar that your steering bolts to. It says Dirtworks in huge letters, and has letters printed on it like "DW then a dash." After that, there will be a number stamped into the tag like 1857 or whatever the chassis number is. There should also be a lazer cut Dirtworks welded to the crossbar behind the fuel cell. If your car doesn't have these things, it may be a dirtworks copy. Hope this helps.
                  Last edited by modracr41; 03-04-2015, 04:31 PM.

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