Switch to what the guys said above and the car will be much faster and more driveable but i would go to 2" off wheels around maybe a 3" on re as track slicks off no less than a 200 on rr preferably a 225 separate that spring and shock on the lr and get the shock on the front definitely jbar center of pinion with about 5" of rake should be in the neighborhood of 500 - 600 spring on rf that should get that car to turn and rotate good with good drive off
dirt works set up?
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dirtworks corrected uppers??
what do you mean by corrected uppers? I have what I believe to be a 2005 with a 64-67 stub but I think the front upper arms may have been relocated, how can I tell?Originally posted by JHobbs26 View PostThat setup sheet is from the early 2000's. Do like Matt said, 550lf, 600rf, 200lr, 175rr. Do you have the corrected uppers or stock mount location? Do you have the early 64-67 chevelle or later 68-72?
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The stock mount uppers have a cross bar to bolt the upper to. The new "updated" versions just have a heim bolted to the frame.
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thanks for the info. Does anyone have a idea as to the aprox length of these corrected arms? and if they should be the same right to left? also can anyone tell me how to identify what year dirtworks we have here from the number welded on the frame rail?
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Dirtworks gave you 2 front end options. the standard option was using a 1 piece upper bolted to the stock tower in the stock location. Or you could order the car with the "corrected" frontend which used the swedge tube/heim style. I believe for the 2005 your LF should use a 6" & 7" swedge tube and the RF uses 5" & 6". Its been 4 years since I've worked on a dirtworks so my memory might be a little off, your best bet would be calling Gary Clark or Jerry Hoffman. Dirtworks did not weld a serial number to the frame, they used a plate riveted to the dash bar.
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I don't think Dirtworks welded a number on the frame rail. There should be an ID tag in the interior on the left side of the crossbar that your steering bolts to. It says Dirtworks in huge letters, and has letters printed on it like "DW then a dash." After that, there will be a number stamped into the tag like 1857 or whatever the chassis number is. There should also be a lazer cut Dirtworks welded to the crossbar behind the fuel cell. If your car doesn't have these things, it may be a dirtworks copy. Hope this helps.Originally posted by Elam Budmore View Postthanks for the info. Does anyone have a idea as to the aprox length of these corrected arms? and if they should be the same right to left? also can anyone tell me how to identify what year dirtworks we have here from the number welded on the frame rail?Last edited by modracr41; 03-04-2015, 04:31 PM.
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