im running a set of prw stainless roller rockers crowler style on my 355ci super stock motor with a lunti roller cam with .645 intake exhaust. my lash is set right at .20 like it tells me. motor seems to run well ran 4th place last night. it is making a growling nosies in the valve train. i was told that nosie is normal on a roller cam? and the tips on my roller rockers are turning black like their getting hot and i have good oil at the top of the engine
rocker arm roller turning black?
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With any solid cam, either flat tappet or roller, you are going to get valve train noise..I compare it more to a sewing machine...If you have weird noises going on, find someone with experience to listen to it for you...
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no i dont run them im getting plunty of oil up their this is my first roller cam i always ran them with soild flat tappet cams . i orderd a set of good sever duty roller rockers they think its because theirs so much spring pressure its too much on them.Originally posted by Egoracing View PostAre you running oil restrictors in the block??
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I you can afford them I recommend t+d shaft rockers...the best rockers made...BIG Headers
Barry Allen Racing Engines
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the cam company wanted like #590 with it open with the high rpm use of it. its a late model camshaft. i didnt set the heads i had a guy thats done race heads for years do it to the specs they wanted. they was good rockers ive used them for 3 years with no problems but went to this roller cam and now they did that. i just had my head guy get me a sever duty rockers. he said alot of the cheaper rockers aint made to stand up to that high of pressure.Originally posted by let-r-eat View PostWhat spring you running? How's it setup? #on seat installed height. Those PRW rockers aren't that junk. Should handle a small solid roller like that.
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My cam has to be set at .020 exhaust and .018 intakeOriginally posted by stock car driverUmm no the lash will not GROW that much, in fact it will tighten up....
Cold lash of .020 will usually be .018 intake and a tight .018 on the exh depending on materials.»»*†HÀ†§ HÓ††™««
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their brand new ,yes their soild ive already had it too 7600 rpms on the track so that takes that out my roller is in the center of my valve stem and my rockers are clearing the springs and i set the valve lash twice after motor was ran. they set at .20Originally posted by Living_TruthCouple things to look at:
Dumb question: Are these new lifters? If not, are you sure they are solid, and not hydraulic?
Next, I'd make sure that your roller is centered on your valve stem when the valves are open.
Lastly, and maybe this should have been first, make sure your rockers aren't hitting your springs. I've seen the cheap-o rockers not cut out enough to clear the springs/retainers. This can lead to a false valve lash, as the rockers have actually bottomed out on the spring. If that's the case, you can purchase valve locks which effectively raise the valve stem out of the retainer by .050"
Also, if you are setting your lash cold at .020, that will grow 7-10 thousands to maybe .030 when hot, which could explain the valve noise.
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Ha ha ha smart guyOriginally posted by stock car driverReally? Thats good to know, lol..
The rest of my post got cut off but i was tryin to back what you posted i have an old elgin that is .030 cold and .026 hot crazy change lol»»*†HÀ†§ HÓ††™««
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I agree Parrot...StockCarDriver, valve lash can loosen up a lot depending on material...when we ran 010 block and Dart iron heads, set them hot and they were the same cold...Now with our aluminum head and block deal, I set them at .018/.020 hot, let them get cold , rechecked them and they are maybe .0005...You can barely move the rocker but can not get a .0015 gauge under it...
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STRAIGHT FROM COMP CAMS WEB SITE
After setting your valve lash with the engine cold, start it and follow the appropriate break-in procedures. Due to thermal expansion, your valve LASH WILL NOW BE TIGHTER than it was when the engine was cold. Repeat the adjustment process to ensure that your valve lash matches that specified by your cam card at normal operating temperaturedillonsolumracing.weebly.com
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I have never really called you out Stock Car Driver, but you are a D*** Who the he** do you think you are telling me not to reply to your stupid a** post? Some BIG TIME stock car driver in Iowa!! Whoopee...I just posted fact. We set more than one all iron engine hot at operating oil and water temp and then checked it cold and it has never gained lash cold..The engines, for the most part, stayed with in .001 or so..if they changed they went tight...I just try and give honest opinions on this board...I've always just kind of ignored the Egoracing and your little deal, but after your a**hole response, maybe Ego isn't so wrong...
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You nailed it Living Truth...A certain poster on here always slams Ego for repeating what he reads...On numerous all iron engines, instead of reading it, we have set them hot, let it cool off and they have never been looser...Almost always the same, but if anything a couple thou tighter...Think about the logic here...Aluminum head/block expands at a much great rate than the steel valve train when hot so you gain in lash clearance...A cast iron block and head, while at a MUCH smaller amount, will grow with heat at a greater rate than a STEEL valve train set up...That's why if anything you might see a thou or two of added lash clearance...Doesn't matter what Comp Cams prints, if you set your valve train at water and oil temp and then check it cold, then that's what you can set it at cold...If it loosens a little, so be it..
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