Originally posted by genx5
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Mastersbilt Gen X HELP!
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Yes too soft of a rf is going to dewedge the car and kill drive but too stiff isn’t going to have the car fully over on the RF which is going to cause it to not be fully hiked which is also going to kill drive and sidebite from lack of dynamic j bar and drive angle on the left rear. I ran a gen x car for a while I would go softer on the right front and run a bump spring. Unless your at eldora when it’s muddy. when you get traction in the car it’s not going to turn without a big zero point on the right front. That was the “ magic “ tater found in that genesis right front shock they cleaned up with in 2011. The problem is it’s not 2011 anymore and if they came back with that identical car and don O’Neil in 2018 they would get spanked.
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Unless gilpin got a new car very recently, both of those cars are not the newest design. Or so I was told.Originally posted by riddle28 View Postare the newer cars gilpin and casebolt are running a completely different style? alot of MB down here but i never liked how much they flex out
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So the car is probably rolling too much on the RF? I race in WV and OH. The krpytonite guys dominate here and their cars stay pinned on the RF.Originally posted by Matt49 View PostThat's way too soft of a spring on that car to not have a bump stop. You are completely de-wedging the car and should not expect any forward drive with that setup.
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No , you have to be over on the right front but you need a bump stop towards the end of the travel. I’d put a 250 or 275 on there with an 850 bump spring and shim it to about 2200 at the 4†masters intended it to travel and make sure you have enough zero point to hold it there
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Mostly sound advice above, but a bumpstop requires less aggressive zero point and low speed rebound.
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Raceengineer I don’t like how they keep packing further and further down until you start bottoming out when the track is fast and you can really stay in the RF. I always used rubber bump stops but after using bump springs I can’t see ever switching back
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I don't have that issue. But I do things differently than most. If you want to stop the suspension at a repeatable place, a progressive rate is best. A progressive rate also bleeds off load fast so the shock doesn't have to be as stiff on rebound. Over damping kills traction.
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