Question on bump stops.

[HuckleberryB4]

After understanding this a little better now, I was able to watch the video and make sense of what was happening with this combination.
When the RF compresses, the springs act as the soft stack and engage the bump stop. When this happens the stack stays acting as the stacked soft rate and I never got on the lock rings. Since I had the 600 on top of the 400 I was fighting myself anyway. But when it hits the bump I was dead in the water and just beat the crap out of the 400.

[Matt49]

HuckleberryB4, if I'm understanding what your are describing I would say you need to take about ten steps back and rethink what you're trying to do.
The stack spring setup with LOCK out nut and the soft spring setup with bump stop are two DIFFERENT setups that are both tools to accomplish basically the same thing. But they require different shock characteristics in most cases. Running them in combination (which is what you are describing) is unnecessarily complex and is making an already confusing situation for you even more confusing. Just my opinion.

[HuckleberryB4]

I agree Matt and that is what I'm doing. Unfortunately I put my trust into a guy that told me how great this setup was and I allowed him to set me up on exactly what I posted above. I didn't know much about the dynamics of it, but knew I wanted to improve and that's what I thought I was doing. This post has helped me understand what is happening on a dual stage and now that I have a better understanding I should be able to be more successful.

Although, I am still wondering what to expect with a larger or smaller spring split?

[fastford]

let me get this strait, your on a two stage spring with a bump stop added also?

[HuckleberryB4]

Yes. That's what I was setup with.

[Matt49]

I agree Matt and that is what I'm doing. Unfortunately I put my trust into a guy that told me how great this setup was and I allowed him to set me up on exactly what I posted above. I didn't know much about the dynamics of it, but knew I wanted to improve and that's what I thought I was doing. This post has helped me understand what is happening on a dual stage and now that I have a better understanding I should be able to be more successful.

Although, I am still wondering what to expect with a larger or smaller spring split?

I've never really thought much in terms of "split".
Figure out what you want your final rate to be (bottom spring) and then set your top spring based on what you want you initial rate to be. Then the gap can be determined based on how much travel you want before making the rate change. You just have to know how much each spring moves for a given amount of stack compression which is easy to figure out.

It is still very important that you get your shock rebound dialed in to keep you on the bottom spring long enough to get the corner exit benefits of it but not so long that it never lets you get setup for the next corner. Remember, you want to be on the stack on entry and on the bottom spring on exit.

[fastford]

with a tie down shock and that set up you were basically on a solid susp on rt frt, if you were on any roughness at all I bet it was a hand full.

[FlatTire]

Huck-

Larger or smaller spring split isn't what I would be concerned about. Its about having the correct combined(primary + secondary) spring rate for entry and the correct primary rate for exit based on track conditions, shapes, and driving style. Just put your rates into the combined spring equation and see for yourself.

Say you had a 600 primary with a 400 secondary. You end up with 240 combined. So on entry you will have a 240lb spring effectively and for exit you will be on the 600 primary. For your concern, I guess you would call this a 600-400 = 200lb spring split.

So lets increase the spring split like you talked about and use 700 primary and a 300 secondary. This gets you to a 210 combined. So on entry you are on 210lb and you exit on a 700lb. This would be a 300lb spring split if you want to call it that.

You first select the spring rate you want for entry and for exit. It doesn't matter what the split is. What does matter is having the correct spring, you put on what you need to help the driver go as fast as he can.

The only time I could see this spring split come into play is on those odd ball tracks where its extremely d-shaped and slick and the car needs to be turned very quickly without using rear brake, yet you need to carry a ton of speed into the corner for entry. You might want more "split". You'll need something a bit softer than normal to entry for the combined rate and something stiffer than normal for exit.

So perhaps the more symmetrical turn 1 is to turn 2 and turn 3 is to turn 4, the less split. The less symmetrical, the more split. The more I think about this, the more I see where you are coming from.

[HuckleberryB4]

Makes sense. So the difference between the springs don't really matter. All I'm looking for is what stacked rate I want for entry and what primary spring I want for exit.

Thanks a ton for everything guys.

[7uptruckracer]

Makes sense. So the difference between the springs don't really matter. All I'm looking for is what stacked rate I want for entry and what primary spring I want for exit.

Thanks a ton for everything guys.

Correct Call up B&O tell them Kenny your running a Dual Stage and you need your RF to be done up. He mostly runs bump so listen to what he says there they are very very very fast on his stuff right now. Spring setups are linear in their loading and bumps are progressive which is why they don't work in the rough tracks because it spikes wheel loadings. Both have the same goal essentially. Allow the car to travel then Load it up. Now that you aren't on a bump if you run dual you might have to get off the short height and go to two 7" springs or in 8 and a 5 or what have you taller springs travel more before coil bind and your 4" probably will bind. Anyways definitely call kenny hes the man down here in NC and VA

[drtrkr244]

Just a thought here......It sounds like you have plenty of traction in the front tires if your car gets loose off the gas. Try adding traction to the rear of the car or just right rear.I always tried to work on the part of the car that needed more traction instead of taking it away from another part.