I am not disagreeing with the other posters, but if you have the rebound and aren't getting too deep into the stop on a rougher track, you can run it and have some benefits.
Bump Stop Help
Collapse
X
-
-
What i was going to try was putting (keeping) a spring rubber in the 300#, yielding an approx 330 # spring when it's not smooth and slick, and pull that out when conditions warrant. Seems like that would keep it mostly out of the bump until you wanted it.Originally posted by MasterSbilt_Racer View PostI am not disagreeing with the other posters, but if you have the rebound and aren't getting too deep into the stop on a rougher track, you can run it and have some benefits.
Am I crazy ?
Comment
-
Not contrary at all...Originally posted by RacerX10 View PostI haven't had anything specific like that done to the shock. I bought it (them) used as a set. What's special about the valving for a Integra IDA on a bump stop ? Again, keep in mind I'm running to "make the show" .. I'm not trying to light the world on fire yet. Will I even be able to notice any difference in a shock valved for a bump ?
Sure hope that doesn't sound contrary .. just trying to learn something
7up hit on it. In most cases, you need the shock to have a different rebound profile than what works best for a standard spring or even for a dual-stage spring setup. I personally wouldn't waste the time with it unless your shock builder thinks you've got something that will work on the rebound side (high "zero" and usually a sharp nose).
To me, running a bump stop without making the other necessary changes (mostly shock valving) is like running E-85 without changing the carburetor. It may work if the carb wasn't right to begin with but if you don't know that, you're sort of guessing.
I've said this before and I'll say it again...building a good relationship with a good shock builder is the best time and money you will spend in late model racing. It isn't just about shocks. Most of the good ones know a great deal about vehicle dynamics and understand how to communicate with drivers.
Just my 2 cents...
Comment
-
Its my understanding if the shock isn't valved for "Bumps" it'll land too hard and you'll get an instant, "PUSH". Secondly if the shock isnt valved to help keep it seated on the bump it'll lift off and you'll lose your drive. The car needs to land just so on the "Bump" and stay seated there. At least that is how I understand it.Originally posted by RacerX10 View PostI haven't had anything specific like that done to the shock. I bought it (them) used as a set. What's special about the valving for a Integra IDA on a bump stop ? Again, keep in mind I'm running to "make the show" .. I'm not trying to light the world on fire yet. Will I even be able to notice any difference in a shock valved for a bump ?
Sure hope that doesn't sound contrary .. just trying to learn something
Left 4M and Dirt Late Model racing, 04/12/2016 @12:06AM.
Comment
-
Thanks for the explanation .. that makes a lot of sense.Originally posted by SuperEight View PostIts my understanding if the shock isn't valved for "Bumps" it'll land too hard and you'll get an instant, "PUSH". Secondly if the shock isnt valved to help keep it seated on the bump it'll lift off and you'll lose your drive. The car needs to land just so on the "Bump" and stay seated there. At least that is how I understand it.
Comment
-
In everyday terms lol high zero is your bleed and sharp or big nose is heavy rebound for the shocks velocity area the control body movement aka not ruts and bumps those are in the high shaft speeds
Originally posted by Matt49 View PostNot contrary at all...
7up hit on it. In most cases, you need the shock to have a different rebound profile than what works best for a standard spring or even for a dual-stage spring setup. I personally wouldn't waste the time with it unless your shock builder thinks you've got something that will work on the rebound side (high "zero" and usually a sharp nose).
To me, running a bump stop without making the other necessary changes (mostly shock valving) is like running E-85 without changing the carburetor. It may work if the carb wasn't right to begin with but if you don't know that, you're sort of guessing.
I've said this before and I'll say it again...building a good relationship with a good shock builder is the best time and money you will spend in late model racing. It isn't just about shocks. Most of the good ones know a great deal about vehicle dynamics and understand how to communicate with drivers.
Just my 2 cents...
Comment
-
Comment
-
-
He certainly knows what he's doing but you might be surprised how affordable it may be also. Shoot him a call and find out what he has to say. Very nice guy. I spoke with him at speedweeks and he was very helpful even though I don't run Integras. John 1*"Out of every one hundred men, ten shouldn't even be there, eighty are just targets, nine are the real fighters, and we are lucky to have them, for they make the battle. Ah, but the one, one is a warrior, and he will bring the others back."
— Heraclitus
Comment
-
Ya, don't be afraid to call him, very cool, nice guy. But be prepared to be told that what you want to do with the shocks and what they are built to do are two different things!
P.S.- if you want a cheap shock guy good luck with that! Chinese parts/tools are cheap but... Well you know!
Comment
Comment